Category Archives: Islay

London Appetizer – Glenfarclas, Aerolite Lindsay, Smokehead High Voltage

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There is something comforting about the familiar. Like sprawling on a comfortable old sofa, curling up under a faded, soft blanket… so too with revisiting a familiar dram or two. Made even better by being with a favourite tasting companion, getting ourselves into the whisky mood before spending a full day at the 2023 Whisky Show in London. Call it the appetizer before the main course!

Up first was a carefully selected starter – a familiar family-owned friend – Glenfarclas. It had been a while since my tasting companion had sipped a Glenfarclas… happy to oblige!

Glenfarclas 15 year 46%

  • Nose – Fresh apples and pears, fall leaves, loads of sweet, digestive biscuits, pastry with vanilla cream, some salt
  • Palate – Fabulous and lip-smacking. Yes, lip-smacking. Light spice, restrained fruit, a bit minerally and dry, a nice contrast to the nose
  • Finish – Carries on with the theme, ending is slightly bitter.

We really enjoyed the nose – really quite outstanding. With a mighty fine palate. It was just perfect for our mood and moment.

Up next was a 10-year-old Islay – one that I had previously only had a whiff, rather than true sampling. What did we think?

Aerolite Lindsay 10 year 46%

  • Nose – Happy peat, a hint of maritime salt spray, tinned peaches, leafy, a bit of iodine, curiously even chaat masala – the kind with black salt that you sprinkle on fresh cut tropical fruit, then shifted back to a more classic styled peat
  • Palate – Cinnamon and peat, a touch of leather, balanced with a nice spice
  • Finish – Very sweet cinnamon

Not complex yet still left us satisfied. We speculated which Islay distillery, was slightly in favour of Caol Ila as it was more approachable peat.

You may ask… Why these two? The 1st was to get into the whisky groove. The 2nd to shift into peat. And then? They were the build-up to Smokehead… I was promised it wasn’t as bad as my first experience or even my second… I was promised something a bit better than palatable… something enjoyable. I was promised… but did it deliver?

Smokehead High Voltage 48%

  • Nose – Burnt embers and ash, hint of lemon and iodine, acetone, funky and sour, plastique, mold like a monsoon cupboard
  • Palate – Very sharp, big, and bold, some sweet with the peat, heavy fruits with some cinnamon peaking in
  • Finish – Sweet, tempered and long

Do yourself a favour. If you are tempted to try – DO NOT take a big swig. I sputtered, Yes sputtered. And made a face. Not a pleasant face. Well… it isn’t just an ashtray. However, it is still clearly designed to be a bit overwhelming. Like a frat house dare. “Booom! Gotcha!”

Sorry… three strikes and you are OUT! It simply is not my style of whisky. For those who want to clobber themselves with peat, knock yourself out. But me? Will simply pass.

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On the Peatier side of life! Aisla Bay, Ardbeg, Octomore

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Sometimes a gal just has to enjoy a wee bit of peat in a dram along with the crisp cool fall breeze, a last-of-the-season outdoor barbecue, and brilliant good company. Or at least this lass does!
After exploring a trio of Islay drams from Bunnahabhain earlier in the evening, it was time to switch to a different kind of peat trio: Aisla Bay, Ardbeg and Bruichladdich’s Octomore. 

Aisla Bay Release 1.2 “Sweet & Smoke” 48.9%

This was certainly a perfectly named expression – it was indeed both sweet with smoke. They list it as having 22 PPM and 19 SPPM (aka Sweet). It was most enjoyable and a lovely way to ease into a peatier range of whiskies. Rather nice to see how this newer Lowland distillery is evolving. I last tried an Aisla Bay in 2017 where the peat levels were a touch lower and the sweet much lower. With this expression, they seem to have got the balance between just right.

Ardbeg BizarreBQ PX 50.9%

We then moved on to a “proper” peaty distillery. Ardbeg is known for big bold peaty aromas and flavours. In this case it, PX casks were used and really amped up the rich sweet flavours like slathering on a sweet & spicy BBQ sauce!

The nose greeted us with PX aromas, vanilla and toffee with the smoke peaking out from underneath. However with the first sip, there was no question this was an Ardbeg! Here we found the bold peat flavours with a dash of PX – the exact reverse of the nose! And the finish too was all Ardbeg – stays long and shifts from peat back to sweet – really quite a nice lip smacking finish. 

This was one delicious dram – and yes it has the marketing gimmick and some folks were not impressed by the goofy approach, I was happy to be reminded that Ardbeg does produce some fine Islay fare!

Octomore Ten Year%

Now… moving on to the big daddy of peaty whiskies – Bruichladdich’s Octomore! The remarkable thing about Octomore is how they manage to make a potent peaty 208 ppm somehow be so drinkable. This one was no exception! It had been a few years since I’d enjoyed an Octomore, and I will admit to taking scant tasting notes beyond: surprisingly fresh on the nose and simply “yum!” on the palate.

Can I just say, wow? What a fabulous weekend of whiskies with the Schottland Forum folks.

Curious about related tasting experiences with Ailsa Bay, Ardbeg and Octmore? Check out the following:

Alisa Bay 48.9%

Bruichladdich at Whisky Live Singapore 2016, Peat Progression Evening and a special focus on Octomore:

An interview with Bill Lumsden about Ardbeg and some expressions sampled over the years:

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A walk on the Islay side… with a trio of Bunnahabhains

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I’ve had a mixed relationship with peat. Once it was something I really enjoyed, then, largely in the heat of India, I found it less and less appealing. With the move to Europe, I then rediscovered in cooler climates just how perfect a good peaty dram can be!

This is why I knew my 2nd day at the Schottland Whisky Forum weekend getaway in October would close with an exploration of Islay drams.

Now, before you assume Islay automatically equals peat, let me remind you that both Bunnahabhain and Bruichladdich have ranges that do not use (much) peat. In fact, the bottle I brought was from Islay – a special Chorlton peaty release from Bunnahabhain. Spotting a few other Bunna’s, I decided that is exactly where my Islay journey should begin!

Bunn

When given a choice, I often like to start with a distillery’s Official Bottling (OB) before moving into special Independent Bottlers, especially cask strength options. 

Bunnahabhain Stiùireadair 46.3%

  • Nose – Clear sherry influence, yet not overwhelming. Joined by some maritime saline, then vanilla, spice, and fruits
  • Palate – Juicy dark fruits, some mocha, nuts, salty caramel
  • Finish – Spicy with dried fruits

Overall I quite enjoyed this. Like many of the milder and gentler Bunna’s this one did not have any major peat element. It was simply a lovely lightly sherry dram with a briney coastal tinge. 

The folks at Bunna share that Stiùireadair; pronounced ‘stew-rahdur’ means ‘helmsman’ in Scots Gaelic. It was matured in first and second fill sherry casks with spirits of varying ages and warehouse locations. 

I then moved on to a Signatory… 

Bunnahabhain / Staoisha 7 year (11 Sep 2013 / 26 May 2021) Dechar / Rechar Hogsheads 900186 + 900187 46% bottle 278 (Signatory)

  • Nose – Quite sweet, some citrus then peat, fresh with a subtle maritime sea spray and white pepper. The more it aired, the more pronounced the peat element was… interesting
  • Palate – Sweet peat with smoked meats, some oak
  • Finish – A nice cinnamon sweet peat finish

Bringing this down to 46% was perfect for this expression. It was full of character without being too forceful or harsh. It was also rather well received by my tasting companions.

Saving what I hoped would be the best for last, we switched gears to the cask-strength Staoisha from Chorlton… Just in case you didn’t figure it out from the earlier Signatory which uses BOTH names, Staoisha signals it is a heavily peated Bunnahabhain. Something we are starting to see more and more of – which isn’t such a bad thing.

Staoisha 8 year (2021) 59.9% (Chorlton)

  • Nose – Red delicious apple skins, sweetgrass
  • Palate – Dry, ashy yet for all its strength, it wasn’t overpowering
  • Finish – Pink peppercorns

I knew it would pack a punch – and that it did! My companions were not impressed – found it a bit too ashy for their taste. I knew I would have a chance to revisit it, so was happy to move on to the next dram and bring the bottle home for further consideration.

Overall what this reminded me is to NOT dismiss Bunnahabhain. Increasingly I’ve heard from more whisky adventurers that there are things going on at Bunna that belies its previous “granny” reputation. In fact, our Whisky Ladies in Mumbai recently spent an evening devoted just to Bunnahabhain!

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The Cabinet “Alt Islay” with The Organic, Caol Ila + Ardcore

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Winnipeg’s The Cabinet whisky-tasting group literally has a special cabinet in which the club’s whisky bottles are locked when not in session.

This particularly wintery evening in November was focused on exploring “Alternative Islay” expressions – one new bottle for all of us, the balance opened. Which I augmented with a couple more!

What kicked off the theme was a distinctive Bruichladdich – part of their Organic line with very specific terroir – declaring the barley comes from Mid Coul Farms, Dalcross, Inverness. This wasn’t my first flirtation with The Organic. The last was nearly a decade ago, also featuring barley from Mid Coul Farms – previously Coulmor Mains of Tullibardine Farms.

Bruichladdich’s The Organic 2010 8 year 50% 

  • Nose – Citrus, some yogurt – actually lemon yogurt, some fresh hay shifting to cereals then bread, was that tinned pineapple too?
  • Palate – Fruity but also initially a bit sharp, and peppery, then it mellows out and grows on you… what was yogurt on the nose became cream on the palate with the citrus joined by apple sauce. Yet there was also something a bit oaky, lightly malty, and a bit of salty fudge
  • Finish – Didn’t stand out
  • Water – Why yes, don’t mind if I do! It rounds it out quite nicely, softening any remaining sharpness

It was a good place to begin… Nothing complicated or intense, it was just a pleasant way to ease into Islay. It was unpeated, matured in American oak casts, and – call it the influence of the name – had quite an “agricultural” feel. At least that’s my impression and I’m sticking with it!

From there we moved on to two Chorlton bottles – an Ardmore and Staoisha – these beauties deserved their own posts! (hint click on the links). But now, on to the next…

North Star’s Caol Ila 12 year (2006) 54.6%

I then brought out the third whisky I brought with me – just a small 100 ml that remained from this lovely North Star single cask Caol Ila at cask strength.

It was fitting for the theme as it was Caol Ila yet definitely not your standard “Original Bottling”. I’m not even going to attempt proper tasting notes. You can check out my earlier experience here.

What I can share, is that oxidation did a rather nice job polishing off any rough edges. What remained was a silky smooth liquid, soft and mellow, with some lovely nuances. I could definitely find the boiled sweets its indie bottler Ian describes, much more than heavy peat. And yet the peat was there too – just subtle.

Lovely lip-smacking stuff!

Here is where I openly admit, once upon a time, I was a punk rock chick. Yup. The spiky hair, creative shaved patterns, the clothes, and all that. Hey, it was the 80s! So anything truly punk is legitimately familiar territory. Which is why when something comes along claiming to be edgy and anti-establishment but is instead, well, insipid… Sigh…

For something so hyped up, it was surprisingly gentle – much more so than a core expression. My notes were embarrassingly scant.

Ardbeg’s Ardcore “Punktured” (2022) 46% – A revisit for the Cabinet lads, new for me!

  • Nose – Sour, some toast?
  • Palate – Sweet, rather benign or innocuous, a bare hint of smoke, maybe some milk chocolate or malt?
  • Finish – Cinnamon

Don’t get me wrong. If I was tasting it blind and didn’t know it was Ardbeg, I would find it quite pleasant. My guess would be it was 40% (not 46%) and whilst there was light peat, it was the sweet and sour that came through more.

However, this was Ardbeg – known for its bold expressions. And the most shocking aspect? It was purchased for around CAD 250? Oh my!

What else did we try in our “Alt Islay” evening in Winnipeg?

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Chorlton – Staoisha 8 year 59.9%

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I will openly admit I have a mixed relationship with peat. In the heat of India, I tend to shy away from peaty drams, preferring something lighter and more in keeping with the summery warm climate. Whereas in the cool of a Nurnberg fall or Winnipeg winter, a dash of peat can just hit the spot… or not!

This particular dram – the Staoisha 8 year (2021) 59.9% – was sampled with different companions and also solo, in three different places. Showing context can be everything!

1. Germany’s Schottland Forum Whisky Weekend Getaway

  • Nose – Red delicious apple skins, sweet grass, some maritime elements
  • Palate – Dry and ashy, yet not overpowering
  • Finish – Pink peppercorns

My tasting companion was not impressed. I was a bit more open however agreed that next to the dizzying array of fine drams sampled over the weekend, this one did not shine.

2. A quiet evening in Nurnberg, Germany just me, myself, and I

What a difference a different environment makes! I brought this home and splashed a little in a glass one cool rainy Nurnberg evening.

  • Nose – Buttery banana bread – like straight from the oven then slathered in butter, joined by some salty maritime breeze
  • Palate – Very dry, smokey with initially some sharpness, then mellows into the glass with a briney almost minerally element, underneath grew a hint of mocha
  • Finish – Still ashy, yet sweetens
  • Water – Oh yum! Yes, this makes all the difference! Softens the peat, and amps up the sweetness…starts with some citrus joining the nose, the ash subdued, the fires banked, and now there is a lovely cinnamon finish too!

Would this be my “go to” dram? No. But I could see how those who enjoy different peaty styles could gravitate towards it.

3. A wintery white evening in Winnipeg, Canada with The Cabinet lads

Was I a bit trepidacious in bringing this offering? Certainly.  Whilst I knew these gents enjoy coastal styles and peat, one simply never knows what will be considered a “hit” and what will be considered a “miss.”

  • Nose – Banana, or more precisely banana bread, quite coastal, as it opened, the smoke gave way to sea breeze and sweeter fruitier elements. Then after some time, I found salted roasted peanuts. Yum.
  • Palate – Ashy? Yes. Dry? Yes, that too. But also so much more. There is full flavoured reward with every sip.
  • Finish – Mmmmm a lovely cinnamon close
  • Water – Take your pick! I prefer it with, others without. Either works!

After the remarkable Ardmore 12 year old, I even more feared this Staoisha would pale by comparison. Nope. It more than held its own. Brilliant! It was even the pick of the evening for one Cabinet lad. Which made bringing the wee 200ml sample bottle worth it!

What did David have to say? The following is an extract from his email…

And next we have an 8-year-old Staoisha – this is peated spirit distilled at Bunnahabhain on Islay, and matured in a first-fill barrel.

On pouring you get such a distinct aroma of banana bread (albeit peat-smoked banana bread…), it’s really quite something! As it settles in the glass that recedes into the background, leaving a clean, coastal smokiness: pine smoke, herbs, sea air and a touch of vanilla from the cask. Fruitiness develops too, with lemon sweets and a tinned pineapple cube. Just the one.

The palate is bigger and smokier than the nose: ashy peat, barbecue smoke, salt & pepper, and maybe a kipper. Just the one. There’s very definite sweetness too, and quite a creamy mouthfeel. It develops on almond paste and lemon cream, before a long, smoky finish with little bits of tangerine fruitiness. With water it’s lime-clean, fruity and smoky – perfect!

Lovely spirit, this. It even reminded me of the recent Lochindaal in a few places which is no bad thing. I’m happy to have some younger stock for future years, and I hope at least some is being put into refill wood for the long haul so we’ll all have something to entertain us in our dotage!

Whilst this was from his December 2021 releases, I missed being able to purchase directly from David. So was delighted in June 2022 when it finally became available in Europe from Whisky.base (NL) for EUR 79 plus shipping and tax.

Here are a few more from La Nouvelle Vague series:

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The Cabinet “Alt Islay” Evening

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Winnipeg is where I grew up. It is also where I was first introduced to whisky. So it is fitting that in my wintery November trip home, I took some time out to enjoy a dram or two with Winnipeg whisky aficionados – aka having a small guest appearance at The Cabinet.

Whilst the lads normally sample 3 to 4 whiskies, I kind of derailed that plan by bringing three! I also disrupted the theme by bringing a lightly peated Highland into the mix of Islays – however, the Ardmore was just too special and simply had to be shared!

What did we try?

Waiting in the wings was an open Laphroig, however, we were clearly not up for the challenge of a 6th whisky! Which is a good thing – as moderation in malts is best.

Over the course of two hours, we made our way through the five whiskies and cheese, giant grapes, and taco chips. The conversation flowed with tales of travel adventures, film, and fiction, and as the whisky glasses clinked, time slipped away in the sheer enjoyment of a good dram or two with fellow appreciators.

And just like that, our wintery Winnipeg evening over whisky was over. Thanks again for the hospitality!

PS – Check out The Cabinet‘s take on our evening together here: Alt Islay. Thanks again gents!

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Scotch Malt Whisky Society

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In whisky circles, the Scotch Malt Whisky Society (SMWS) stands out as one of those special groups spread around the world with local societies. For forty years, the Society has encouraged whisky aficionados to explore the world of whisky through SMWS releases with their inventive and humorous descriptions! 

Nowhere on the label is the distillery disclosed, however, their numerical codes are an “open secret” with fans knowing what each represents or… cheating by looking them up! 

During our Schottland Whisky Forum weekend getaway in October, there were several SMWS bottles brought to share. Over the course of two days, I splashed small samples of each into a nosing glass and glimpsed their character. 

95.64 (Auchriosk) “Sweet and Rummy, Good for the Tummy” 11 year (2 Aug 2006) 62.9% 213 Bottles Approx Eur 83

There is a danger in starting off with something spectacular… everything else that follows pales by comparison. That was exactly my experience with this Auchriosk. Matured for eight years in ex-Bourbon casks, followed by three years refill Trinidad rum, launched for SMWS France members. What was the result?

  • Nose – Very merry, rummy, nummy, starts with heavy dates, and raisins, then shifts into juicy fruits and mashed bananas, some cinnamon, a touch of coffee, and nuts joining the rum raisins
  • Palate – Needs time to open up, then becomes absolutely delicious, sweet rum raisins, then shifts into a sweet treat, delightful! 
  • Finish – Cinnamon candy

I absolutely loved this one! Take your time… as I sat in the autumn outdoors, was happy to just sniff my near-empty glass, lingering over this one…

However, my tasting companions were raving about another dram so I found myself wandering back into our main room to select my next dram.  

112.59 (Inchmurrin) “Kaffeepause in der Möbelfabrik” 13 year (27 Dec 2006) 63.2% 251 Bottles Approx. Eur 75.

From the name alone, you know this expression was released specifically for Germany! It translates into “Coffee break in the furniture factory” and is exactly the kind of dram you want to slow down and have a break. From Loch Lomond, it began its journey in ex-Bourbon Hogshead then was finished in Heavy Char new oak Hogshead. 

  • Nose – Instant coffee, then opens to a fresh rich mocha, as it further opened, took on a lovely perfume with fresh herbs and honey – lovely! Underneath, there was apple sauce and toffee… over time even a bit of hot chocolate with marshmallows!
  • Palate – Shy at first, sober, thick chocolate, wood, spice, syrupy sweet… weighty and balanced, great mouthfeel… like silk rolling around the palate, delicious
  • Finish – Yum! Mocha joined by lebkuchen with a distinctly ginger  
  • Water – The initial reaction was hmm…. it dampened the delicious aromas. However on the palate? A delicious coffee spice – like an indulgent frothy decadent coffee dessert

Again – a remarkably good dram. One that made you want to slow down and simply enjoy. So I did just that… kicked back and relaxed. 

68.20 (Blair Athol) “Ginger Beer in a Champagne Flute” 11 year (2 Aug 2006) 54.7% 305 Bottles 

Blair Athol tends to use sherry casks, however, in this case, the whisky was matured solely in refill ex-bourbon Hogshead. So what did we think?

  • Nose – Sour, stewed fruits – maybe apricots?
  • Palate – Also a bit odd – had expected a bit of sparkle and spice, instead it was a bit nondescript…. so what there ginger beer? Yes… with some dry cookies too. What about champagne? Nope.

To be honest, this one didn’t quite catch my fancy. Nothing wrong, but nothing that really stood out. You can tell just from my scant-tasting notes alone that it didn’t really leave much of an impression. So, I stopped at a few drops and moved on…

1.237 (Glenfarclas) “Suave & Plush” 7 year (26 Feb 2013) 60.7% 228 Bottles Was originally released for £55 (now out of stock)

So I decided to shift gears to where the SMWS journey all began – with Glenfarclas – hence its #1 status! In this case, the bottle details share that it began maturing in an ex-bourbon, then it was finished with a 1st fill ex-oloroso sherry hogshead.

  • Nose – Initially a bit muted, then opened to raisins or figs, a dash of green pepper
  • Palate – Some spice, plums, young yet flavourful
  • Finish – Long with a hint of coffee

 

4.286  (Highland Park) “Kirkwall Skink” 11 year (29 Oct 2009) 62.8% 258 bottles

What was unusual about this Highland Park is no ex-sherry cask – either for the main maturation or finish. Instead, it lived initially in an ex-bourbon barrel followed by finishing in a 1st Fill ex-bourbon. This led to some confusion in my tasting companion – who found none of the expected Highland Park elements… So what did I find?

  • Nose – Initially tinned peaches, some apple, missing the typical HP heather, yet still had a fresh meadow element, more than that was the maritime ocean spray chassed by a twist of citrus
  • Palate – Some power here – clear it is cask strength! Again – different than expected til we realized there were no sherry influences. Instead, it had some lovely mineral qualities, more maritime, with some sweetness joining some herbal elements too
  • Finish – Was that a puff of smoke at the close?
  • Water – initially adds a waxy character, and starts to reveal a lovely herbal honey, with something deeper – especially on the palate. The closest I could come to describe it was olives – a combination of the olive brine and umami elements.

Not such a bad way to wind things up. For me, the Auchriosk and Inchmurrin were the real highlights – very happy to have an opportunity to try them!

I’ve had a few SMWS experiences previously:

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A dash of Islay – Bunnahabhain 10 year + Staoisha 5 year

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My explorations from a 2019 Whisky advent calendar are picking up pace! Each dram from this calendar was from a single cask, each unique, one-of-a-kind. This time I picked a pair of Bunnahabhains from Islay.

I decided to begin with the Bunnahabhain 10 year – anticipating that it would be without peat followed by the Staoisha 5 year. Named after Loch Staoisha on the Isle of Islay, when bottled as Staoisha, it is a signal that there is peat added to the mix.

Bunnahabhain 10 Year Old 2008 (cask 12663) 48% (Clan Denny, Douglas Laing)

  • Nose – That typically sweet, sour, and saline quality that greets you with most Bunnas! Alongside the fresh sea breeze comes sweet cake, a drizzle of honey, and a faintly nutty undertone with vanilla
  • Palate – Gentle and approachable, light spice joins tinned pineapples and more of that salt – quite pronounced
  • Finish – Continues with the sweet, spicy, and salty character…

A promising start and time to shift to the next expression…

Staoisha 5 Year Old 2013 (cask 940) 59.3% (The Single Cask) 258 Bottles

  • Nose – Now there is the peat! Smokey, fruity – especially the pineapple – which transforms from tinned to grilled – yum! Some bananas there too, opening into a medley of stewed fruits. Return to the nose again to discover that peat, sweet, with cinnamon, and spice. Also with a health dash of salt. Lovely!
  • Palate – Initially a mild bonfire of spice and peat that swiftly gentled. It was delicious – like warm sweet bread.
  • Finish – Cinnamon spice

There is no mistaking the peat in this one. It was really rather fabulous – a warm embrace.

I’m no stranger to this distillery… here is a sampling of other Bunnahabhain‘s sampled over the years…. many of which have age statements:

And a few more “modern” expressions without an age statement:

From time to time, you can also find other whisky-related updates and activities on:

Gordon + MacPhail Discovery: Caol Ila 13 year 43% 

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Amongst the Islay distilleries, Caol Ila is generally known to be one of the lighter whiskies – both in terms of its peat and colour as they typically stick with ex-bourbon barrels for maturing. This leads to generally quite an approachable balanced peat dram. And for all those folks who love the light peat in Jonny Walker? Caol Ila is likely responsible!

All of this made it a perfect choice for our final whisky in our evening exploring different dimensions of single malts. I already sampled this particular Gordon & MacPhail Discovery series expression at Paris Whisky Live. It was just a teasing taste, yet enough to be confident in adding it as the “peat” element in our 1st Nurnberg International Whisky Tasting evening.

So what did we think?

Caol Ila 13 year 43% 

  • Colour – Old gold (0.6)
  • Nose – Initially greeted by wet wood and embers, then warmed into smoked pork belly, maple bacon, and cured sweetmeats. After some time, the fruit came more to the fore with glazed banana, roasted pineapple, sweet grass
  • Palate – Smoked meat, soft, gentle peat, fruity
  • Finish – Long sweet cinnamon and lightly smoky
  • Water – Personal choice – for some, this helps open up the whisky to enhance the fruitiness, for others, it was not needed at all!

We had a few peat skeptics in the room… many of whom were pleasantly surprised at the subtle sweet peat and balance of this whisky – cured meats glazed with fruit were much more approachable than some “in your face” bold peat “bonfire” and “iodine” whiskies!

For those of us familiar with the distillery – it is what we have come to expect – a balanced peat, the kind of dram that invites you to slow down, curl up into a comfy chair, put on some good music, and just relax, slowly sipping and savouring.

What do the good folks over at Gordon & Macphail have to say about this expression?

Sweet vanilla and dry cured meat aromas. Peat smoke umdertones are complemented by banana and apricot.

Ripe banana, kiwi and vibrant hints of fresh citrus, leading to a long, sweet and smoky finish.

With this peat expression, we closed our inaugural tasting session in which we explored the impact of cask (ex-bourbon and ex-sherry) and peat in the Gordon & Macphail Discovery series!

Our evening explored a quartet from Gordon & Macphail’s Discovery series.

Around the room, we had slightly different preferences – however if you pushed me to rank, I would probably put the Miltonduff 1st, followed by the Aultmore, then this Caol Ila, finishing with the Glenrothes.

What additional Caol Ila tastings over the years? There have been a few – mostly from independent bottlers:

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Gordon + Macphail Connoisseurs Choice – Glendullan, Glenburgie, Caol Ila

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We continued our whisky explorations at the Gordon & Macphail stand at Paris Whisky Live, switching gears from their DIscover to Connoisseur Choice range with:

  • Glendullan 12 year (2009 / 2022) 45% (approx Eur 100)
  • Glenburgie 26 year (1995/2022) 1st fill Sherry Puncheon #6349, 56.8% (approx Eur 250)
  • Caol Ila 25 year (1996/2022) 1st fill Sherry Butt #16074, 59.2% (approx Eur 350)

Glendullan 12 year (2009 / 2022) 45% 3245 Bottles.

  • Nose – A burst of berries – sweet and inviting
  • Palate – Strong berry flavours – mostly raspberries with some cassis
  • Finish – Nice sweet and sour cherry plus berry finish

What more do we know? The bottle states that this whisky had its initial maturation in a refilled bourbon barrel, finished in Cote Rotie cask for 3 years. It must be the red wine that brought such distinctive berry flavours to the fore – my tasting notes are merely variations on a berry theme! Their official tasting notes share a bit more with:

Dried strawberry aromas give way to roasted peanuts and crystallised violet. Rasperry compote flavours combine with liquorice and red apple. A medium-bodied finish with citrus and red berries.

Glenburgie 26 year (1995/2022) 1st fill Sherry Puncheon # 6349, 56.8% 564 Bottles.

  • Nose – Beautiful elegant pear, lovely sherry elements, some marmalade
  • Palate – Gorgeous! Lovely balanced palate, complex, nuanced, fruity, yet at the same time “heavy” and nutty
  • Finish – Again – stunning! Full fruit flavours, long, strong with hint of spice

I’m already partial to this Speyside distillery – with Glenburgie fixed in my mind as the “Downton Abbey” of whiskies – something that harkens back to an earlier era, still with some character and spunk but overlaid with a summery elegance. Everything that I love about Glenburgie was evident here – its age merely augmenting all the elements I’ve grown to love.

What more do we know? The label indicates this was a single cask 1st fill Sherry Puncheon – clearly responsible for the full flavours found in this impressive whisky. Their official tasting notes state:

Sweet raisin aromas combine with orange peel and fruitcake. Sultana flavours emerge alongside pepper and toasted hazelnuts. A full finish with spice.

Caol Ila 25 year (1996/2022) 1st fill Sherry Butt #16074, 59.2% 555 bottles

  • Nose – Cured meat, bacon, bonfire, sweet, heavy maple
  • Palate – A proper “campfire” dram – all those meaty aromas and sweet maple combine
  • Finish – An incredibly sweet peat feat! Some chilli chased by sweet cinnamon
  • Water – Whilst I only had a small sample, I added a drop. Wow! Brings such balance to every element – fabulous!

I was careful in my tasting order – sampling all the non-peated whiskies before turning first to the Discovery Range Caol Ila then this Connoisseurs Choice single cask. It made for a nice progression with this 25 year old being absolutely spectacular. Well worth sampling if you have the chance.

The official tasting notes are a great reflection of what to expect:

Raspberry compote aromas give way to festive spices and smoke. Cured meat flavours complement summer fruit and orange peel. A full finish with black pepper and bonfire embers.

Well done Gordon & Macphail with all three! None of the Connoisseurs Choice expressions disappointed and I appreciated that they kept two vintage single casks for the “main floor”, not just featuring such rare whiskies in the VIP section.

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