Sometimes you discover something unexpected. Something distinct. Something that may even defy description yet still finds its place in your mind as something worthy of remembering. This was exactly my experience with my first taste of Fary Lochan in London – thanks to That Boutique-y Whisky Co! This was followed up by an equally remarkable bottle opened as part of an evening exploring European drams.
So when a fellow enthusiast offered to share some samples, I was delighted! And what an experience!
It was a typical February evening in Nurnberg – cold, rainy, and frankly miserable. Exactly the kind of weather that encourages cocooning at home, not venturing out. However, my tasting companion braved the weather to join me from Bamberg in exploring this quintet:
- Fary Lochan 5 year (2012/2017) Rum No. 1, 64.7%
- Fary Lochan 6 year (2016/2022) Moscatel Finish, Batch 5, 62.1%
- Fary Lochan 7 year (2014/2021) Olorosso 60.3% (Single Cask by Liquid Madness)
- The Nordic “Vindoga” Sherry Casks #2 (Fary Lochan, Mosgaard, Smogen, High Coast, Myken, Teerenpeli) 59.7% (Berry Bro’s & Rudd)
- Fary Lochan 7 year (2015/2023) Peat & Port No. 1, 60.9%
What makes this whisky unique is how its smoke comes from nettles – inspired by nettle-smoked cheese from Funen.
Our journey began with the Rum cask…
Fary Lochan 5 year (2012/2017) Rum No. 1, 64.7% ~Eur 199. 639 bottles
- Colour – Very pale straw
- Nose – Light spice, freshly sawed pine wood, honey, sea grass, herbal, as it opened, there was a hint of fruits – pear and apple – which grew the more time spent in the glass
- Palate – Warming, pine sol, some black peppercorns, distinctive and yet also a bit subdued – which is not necessarily a bad thing!
- Finish – Carries through then disappears
- Water – Makes it much more bitter and the distinctive element is a bit lost… the aromas still have herbal elements, chased by vanilla
It was a good start – a well-chosen beginning as it was more subtle and restrained than our next offerings.
What more do we know? It matured for approximately four years in ex-bourbon casks before being finished for another year in rum casks.
We carried on with a revisit of the dram which prompted this evening!
Fary Lochan 6 year (2016/2022) Moscatel Finish, Batch 5, 62.1% ~Eur 125
- Colour – Bright gold with darker hints of amber
- Nose – Sour cherry, apple sauce, nuts and a unique herbal element
- Palate – Wonderfully full, delicious and so well rounded, sweet herbal, balanced, yet with a distinctive element
- Finish – Yum! A delicious spice that lingers… stays and stays and stays…
Overall we could best describe this expression as like being enveloped by a warm comforting blanket. The revisit of this dram cemented our positive opinion! With that elusive yet very distinctive “Fary Lochan” element!
Next, we turned to the sherry Olorosso single-cask bottled Liquid Madness…
Fary Lochan 7 year (2014/2021) Olorosso 60.3% (Single Cask by Liquid Madness) ~Eur 90
- Colour – Deep amber
- Nose – Clear unmistakable sherry stamp, also some red wine tannins, rich mocha, freshly shaved wood combined with smoked herbs, licorice, sour fruits
- Palate – A darker, heavier flavour than the Moscatel finish, has depth and substance, a wonderful mouthfeel, burnt toast with marmite, dry and curious, some fruits that were a bit hard to exactly pinpoint, yet worked!
- Finish – Smoke
- Revisit – After some time we returned to our near-empty glasses – Delicious chilli chocolate
We remarked that this is the kind of “reward” whisky after a hard day. The Olorosso certainly had more in common with the Moscatel than the Rum finish, however, amped up in the best possible way. And if you didn’t catch it from the description, we really liked it!
Our next choice was a completely different direction with a blend!
The Nordic “Vindoga” Sherry Casks #2 59.7% Blend of Fary Lochan, Mosgaard, Smogen, High Coast, Myken, Teerenpeli (bottled by Berry Bro’s & Rudd)
- Colour – Dark coffee with a ruby-red glow
- Nose – Oh my! A lot of competing elements! Fruits & berries, nuts & peat. Very active – jumping all over. From Mocha to molasses, dried berries, sour
- Palate – Power packed – again lots going on. Different voices vying for attention. Sherry, more of that mocha, spice, intense
- Finish – Linges with chocolate raisins and nuts
Where to begin with this one? There are so many different dimensions – more a cacophony than harmony. And yet unmistakably interesting. Just a few drops go a long way!
We closed with the peated expression… knowing that typically what works best for tasting orders is sweet before peat!
Fary Lochan 7 year (2015/2023) Peat & Port No. 1, 60.9%
- Colour – Bright rose gold
- Nose – Sour apples with a dusting of cinnamon, ripe cherries, a herbal quality to the smoke – like sweet grass?
- Palate – Deceptively soft at first then a bonfire! Full flavoured, fruit and peat, jam and chocolate, salted nuts. By the 3rd sip, it started to settle down with the port and peat interplay dancing around the palate
- Finish – Keeps going…
Hiding behind all the most pronounced features was that distinctive Fary Lochan element. Perhaps it was because this was such a departure, however, it didn’t quite “click” with us the way the others did. Still very interesting to try and perhaps needed more time and quantity in the glass to really open up. That is the danger of sharing samples sometimes! Never enough to get the full feel.
Can I just say – wow! It was absolutely remarkable to further explore this very distinctive Danish distillery offerings. It is hard to pinpoint exactly what makes it so remarkable – however, there is just something completely unique. For us, both the Olorosso and Moscatel finish stood out as clear winners!
HUGE thank you to Barley Mania for kindly sharing some precious drops of your Fary Lochan collection! I can indeed see why it has captivated you! And now us too!
What about other whiskies sampled from Denmark
- Danica NAS 42% (unpeated)
- Fary Lochan 6 Years (2022) Batch 1, 60.7% (TBWC)
- Fary Lochan 6 year (2016/2022) Moscatel Finish, Batch 5, 62.1%
- Stauning Young Rye (2010/2011) 49.3%
- Stauning Peated 2nd Edition 55%
- Stauning Rye (2021) Mezcal Finish 46.3%
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