Monthly Archives: February 2023

Chorlton’s Tullibardine 29 year 47.5%

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Last in our “Swansong” trio celebrating drams of days gone by was a Tullibardine from Chorlton‘s  La Nouvelle Vague series…And why would this whisky qualify for such inclusion? It was completely “mothballed” back in 1995 and wasn’t re-opened for production until 2003. And this particular expression came from 1993!

What did we think?

Tullibardine 29 year (1993) 47.5% 

  • Nose -Shy. waxy crayons, lots of sweetness, could immediately tell this was a well-aged whisky, light caramel, bananas, quite subtle, berries – especially strawberries with pepper, pink Amul strawberry ice cream, Maltese-chocolate creamy fruity filling
  • Palate – On the 1st sip, we found ice cream, some wood, simply delicious, by the 2nd sip we discovered some marvelous spunk and character chased by sweetness – when I later read David’s notes could completely understand where he found the gingerbread & rye… yet still with pastries
  • Finish – Balsa wood finish, dry

What a marvelous malt! There was a delightful combination of indulgent desserts with elements of much greater substance. A truly interesting dram – inviting, enjoyable, and unique. Fabulous.

What did David have to say? The following is an extract from his website…

A characterful but easy-drinking example of this distinctive Highland make. The nose has banana bread, caraway and rye, peanut brittle, honey, olive oil and apricot jam. The palate takes us to a bakery somewhere in central Europe with gingerbread, rye bread, baking spices and honeyed pastries, plus orange cream and sweet Frisian tea.

This hogshead produced 181 bottles at a cask strength of 47.5% and was released for £160 back in the summer of 2022. Thanks to Brexit, I couldn’t purchase it directly, so instead impatiently waited for it to make its way to Whisky.base, where I purchased it in November 2022 for EUR 200 + 18% tax + shipping.

We tried it together in early January 2023, in a Mumbai evening spent exploring “Swansong” drams:

As for other Chorlton bottles from La Nouvelle Vague series? I’ve had the pleasure of exploring a few expressions:

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Wee indulgence – Glenburgie 21 year 43%

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I’ve made no secret of my partiality to Glenburgie… I love the classic quality, the pears, yum! I also find Gordon & MacPhail simply incredibly reliable in their cask choice and maturing. However, my last Glenburgie was a bit of a disappointment – an 8 year Single Cask 46% (Single Malt Scotch Whisky – Hepburn’s Choice). At the time, I simply chalked it up to the choice of a single cask as another 8 year from That Boutique-y Whisky Co was lovely!

And that’s when I learned that back in 2000, Glenburgie production stopped with the distillery being completely rebuilt in 2003/2004. So the question is… even if one pursues a similar distillery profile and approach, surely changing the set-up must make a difference?

And that’s when I also realized, all of the expressions that made me so fond of Glenburgie and think of this dram as the “Downtown Abbey” of whiskies came from the period before production stopped. Knowing that I simply had to include this 21-year in our line-up of Swansong drams…

Glenburgie 21 year 43% (Gordon & MacPhail – Distillery Label)

  • Nose – Classic, damp, treacle, lots of honey, citrus, orange blossom honey, grainy honey too, marmalade, sunshine, warm biscuits slathered in vanilla cream
  • Palate – Delicious, soft well rounded coats your tongue, nice white pepper, honey
  • Finish – Lovely warmth

Pure delight! Thank goodness! It was exactly the joyful summery dram I wanted… The notes from our evening are limited as I simply lost myself in enjoying the whisky and not documenting every detail! As this bottle remains with me in Mumbai, I’ll no doubt revisit it again and again, perhaps adding further colour and nuance to my tasting notes.

I purchased it from an online distributor in Germany – Whic for quite a reasonable Eur 110 – considering the caliber and quality of the whisky!

What do the folks at Gordon & MacPhail have to say?

  • Cask Type Refill Sherry butts
  • Colour Dark Gold
  • Aroma Notes of brown sugar-covered stewed raisins mingle with hints of roasted hazelnuts. Delicate floral aromas are complemented by sweet vanilla and freshly cut dry hay.
  • Taste Full and fruity; stewed apple, cinnamon, and clove flavours come to the fore initially. Ripe summer berries emerge and combine with fresh mint highlights and refined toasted malt undertones.
  • Finish Long with lingering charred oak and a subtle herbal undertone.

We tried it together in early January 2023 in Mumbai in an evening exploring “Swansong” drams:

And if you are curious about other Glenburgie tasting experiences? Read on…

From before the distillery was shut and rebuilt:

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Cambus 29 year 52% “The Whisky Trail Retro”

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We kicked off our special “Swansong” evening celebrating whiskies that once were with a closed lowland grain distillery – Cambus. This particular cask was bottled by Elixir (aka Sukhinder Singh’s company) and was inspired by my recent experience at Paris Whisky Live with their Cambus 29 (part of Atom Brand’s Darkness range). It was a lovely nuanced fruity expression that drew one in… so I thought this might be a marvelous way to begin our journey. 

So what did we think? To start, there is the amusing “retro” label that harkens back to days gone by when Super Mario Brothers video arcade games were all the craze… a wee bit earlier than when this whisky was “born” aka 1990! This more playful approach to whisky labels was most famously done by That Boutique-y Whisky Company, but now can be found popping up in various forms all over.

However, what matters most is the liquid the bottle contains…

Cambus 29 year (1990 / 2020) ex Bourbon Cask No. 93596 52% 

  • Nose – Spirited at first, fluctuating between hay and grass, then lightly floral, an aromatic chemical, one found a bit of match-head sulfur, the sweetness of honeydew melon, then back to acetone
  • Palate – Sharp, sweet, resinous, dark shriveled Indian grape with seeds, bitter almond or hazelnut
  • Finish – For a grain, has quite a finish
  • Water – Brings out a nice nuttiness on the palate

We set it aside to sample the other two whiskies and on the return, found that the grain had softened, particularly on the palate. One even described it as having a bit of marmite added to the other elements!

What do the folks at Elixir have to say?

A 1990 Cambus single grain whisky from indie bottler Elixir Distillers, matured for 29 years in a single hogshead before being bottled in June 2020 as part of its Whisky Trail Video Games series. Aromas of fresh grass, buttery biscuits, lemon, white chocolate and oak spice fill the nose. The palate offers notes of candy apples, hazelnuts, crystalised pineapple, milk chocolate-covered honeycomb and fragrant chamomile tea.

Whilst we didn’t find all of the elements described, it was interesting… just not sure it was worth the Eur 140 price tag! (purchased this from WhiskyFass in November 2022).

We tried it together in early January 2023 in Mumbai in an evening exploring “Swansong” drams:

Curious about other tasting experiences with Cambus? Check out the following…

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Glenlivet Master Distiller’s Trio – Reserve, Solera Vatted, Small Batch

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Back in March 2020, I had a lovely colleague staying with me in Nurnberg, waiting for flights to open up so she could go to Singapore for her new assignment. As she was moving, all her household belongings were shipped except for the booze…. and she just so happened to have a trio of Glenlivet minis that made their way into my whisky cabinet.

They sat neglected for a few years until one evening, as the snow fell outside, nearly three years later, it just seemed to be the right time to crack them open… So what did I think?

“Smooth & Complex” Glenlivet Master Distiller’s Reserve 40%

  • Nose – Light spice, coconut, hint of fruit
  • Palate – Soft, watery honey
  • Finish – Light, faintly bitter

I have to admit it’s been some time since I’ve had something quite so mass-produced. One could call it “delicate”, another description would be “insipid”… either way it was quite light, simple, and smooth however not in the least bit complex. Clearly, I wouldn’t fully agree with their ‘tag’ for this particular dram – Smooth? Sure. Complex? Nope.

What do the folks at Glenlivet say?

Maturation in the three different types of cask gives this expression its unique depth of flavour that includes creamy coconut, soft fudge, dried fruit and spicy richness.

Created for travel retail, it was launched with Alan Winchester, who has been Master Distiller at the distillery since 2009. He created this whisky with European oak butts and first-fill American barrels as well as refill hoggies.

“Intense & Velvety” – Glenlivet Master Distiller’s Reserve – Solera Vatted 40%

  • Nose – Toffee, malt, a bit of apple pie, a dash of spice, salty caramel
  • Palate – Light spice, orchard fruits, some fudge
  • Finish – Slightly bitter, some spice, chased by honey

Much more interesting! Though subtle, it grows on you – particularly the nose and finish. Whilst I wouldn’t call it “intense” (after all, I’m a cask strength kinda gal), it was quite velvety smooth.

What do the folks at Glenlivet say?

The finished single malt whiskies are brought together in our Solera Vat, which is never emptied, producing a whisky with intense layers, velvety character and a honeyed sweetness.

Another travel retail offering, released in the summer of 2015 and is no longer readily available, Once upon a time, it retailed for approx GBP 60.

“Delicately Spiced” – Glenlivet Master Distiller’s Reserve – Small Batch 40%, Batch No 9378/005 ex-Sherry in American oak

  • Nose – Malty, fruits, vanilla, a touch nutty
  • Palate – Much spicier – in a good way, some marmalade, raisins
  • Finish – Again a bit bitter, then shifts into fruits and nuts

Spicier than the other two, the oak influence is quite pronounced. One could also catch the clear sherry element too.

What do they say?

Released and bottled in small uniquely numbered batches, some of our finest and rarest whiskies come together to create a perfectly balanced malt with warm fruity flavours and hints of spiciness.

Another Travel Retail market release (approx GBP 80), the Master Distiller’s Reserve Small Batch is made with various casks – first-fill ex-Sherry, first-fill American oak casks, etc.

Obviously, the Distillers Reserve didn’t exactly “make the cut” for me… however, I enjoyed the Solera Vatted and Small Batch with the aromas of the Solera comforting whereas the palate of the Small Batch was more interesting. Whilst I won’t be running out to buy Glenlivet travel retail anytime soon, however it was a nice reminder of why these folks have such popularity.

As for other Glenlivet tastings? Check out:

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Swansong – Cambus 29 year, Glenburgie 21 year, Tullabardine 29 year

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Most would be familiar with the term “Swansong” which is the final performance of what was hopefully an illustrious career! This was the theme of a very special whisky-tasting evening early January 2023 in Mumbai – all liquid that marked the “end” of a distillery or that particular “avatar” of the distillery. To make it even more interesting, all were also from “indie” bottlers – from well-established, large-scale to newer, very small-scale.

What did I pick for this carefully curated evening?

Cambus 29 year (1990 / 2020) ex Bourbon Cask No. 93596 52% (Elixir, The Whisky Trail Retro) Lowland

The most obvious example is Cambus distillery. This grain distillery had a mixed history of highs and lows, closing in 1993 with the distillery completely demolished to eventually make way for Diageo’s cooperage.

From Elixir (aka Sukhinder Singh’s continued ventures), the bottle I picked is from their “Whisky Trail Retro” series with fun “Mario gameboy” style labels. Already sold out in the UK, I managed to snag this bottle in Europe for EUR 140 (+tax/shipping). Here I must admit that I was inspired by the remarkable Cambus 29 year tasted at Paris Whisky Live.

Glenburgie 21 year 43% (Gordon & Macphail Distillery Labels) Speyside

Glenburgie is still producing whisky, however, this particular bottle came from before production stopped in 2000, with the distillery being completely rebuilt in 2003/04. Making this spirit from a previous “avatar” of the distillery. My experience with Glenburgies from this period is very positive – summery drams with warm peaches, elegant and classy.

Here I selected a bottle from Gordon & Macphail who do more than “bottle”, they also have a hand in the casks used to mature the whisky. In this case, they also have the “right” to use the distillery label. I purchased this bottle in early 2021 for Eur 110 (+tax/shipping) and have been impatiently waiting for the right opportunity to open! 

Tullabardine 29 year 47.5% (Chorlton) Highland

Last, but certainly not least! I chose to close with a whisky from Tuillabardine distillery. Again you could argue “But hey, they are still producing whisky!” And you would be (partly) correct… however the distillery was completely “mothballed” back in 1995 and wasn’t re-opened for production until 2003. 

My choice for bottler was clear – the very creative Chorlton indie bottler with his eye-catching medieval labels and consistently quality drams. This bottle was acquired in Europe for EUR 200 (+tax/shipping), certainly steeper than my usual choice, but simply couldn’t resist!

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Mumbai Malty Evenings – Claichag Glencoe 43%

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Earlier in the year, we had a bit of an impromptu gathering over an odder assortment of drams. One was a complete mystery! It came from a Scottish Inn known for great bars with extensive whisky collection and hosting of whisky tasting sessions. We had no clue what we were drinking beyond it being from the Highlands and bottled at 43%.

Claichag Glencoe 10 year Highland 43%

  • Nose – Apples, raspberries with vanilla
  • Palate – Chocolate with a peaty palate – what a surprise!
  • Finish – Very ashy finish

At first, we thought it had more of a “Speyside” than “Highland” character… what I found the most interesting is how it was sweetness and light initially on the nose, then more powerful on the palate with a clear peaty stamp veering even further in the peat spectrum with an ashy finish. Going back for the next whiff and sip, we discovered that the more time it spent in the glass, the sweeter and lighter it became with the peat fading further and further into the background.

There was quite a bit of speculation and guessing about this one with no specific conclusion. Pity we didn’t know more, but that’s half the fun – responding to our immediate experience with limited further context!

We tried this together with a new Swedish distillery’s spirits at a very early “pre-whisky“ stage that still showed great promise. Such promise that we were delighted to try an Agitator trio of their “proper” whiskies in Dec 2022, courtesy of a Swedish Whisky Lady – what fun!

We didn’t stop here… we continued on to explore

What fun having an amiable evening wandering through a few interesting blends, single malts, and this mystery dram.

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