Category Archives: Speyside

Wee indulgence – Glenburgie 21 year 43%

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I’ve made no secret of my partiality to Glenburgie… I love the classic quality, the pears, yum! I also find Gordon & MacPhail simply incredibly reliable in their cask choice and maturing. However, my last Glenburgie was a bit of a disappointment – an 8 year Single Cask 46% (Single Malt Scotch Whisky – Hepburn’s Choice). At the time, I simply chalked it up to the choice of a single cask as another 8 year from That Boutique-y Whisky Co was lovely!

And that’s when I learned that back in 2000, Glenburgie production stopped with the distillery being completely rebuilt in 2003/2004. So the question is… even if one pursues a similar distillery profile and approach, surely changing the set-up must make a difference?

And that’s when I also realized, all of the expressions that made me so fond of Glenburgie and think of this dram as the “Downtown Abbey” of whiskies came from the period before production stopped. Knowing that I simply had to include this 21-year in our line-up of Swansong drams…

Glenburgie 21 year 43% (Gordon & MacPhail – Distillery Label)

  • Nose – Classic, damp, treacle, lots of honey, citrus, orange blossom honey, grainy honey too, marmalade, sunshine, warm biscuits slathered in vanilla cream
  • Palate – Delicious, soft well rounded coats your tongue, nice white pepper, honey
  • Finish – Lovely warmth

Pure delight! Thank goodness! It was exactly the joyful summery dram I wanted… The notes from our evening are limited as I simply lost myself in enjoying the whisky and not documenting every detail! As this bottle remains with me in Mumbai, I’ll no doubt revisit it again and again, perhaps adding further colour and nuance to my tasting notes.

I purchased it from an online distributor in Germany – Whic for quite a reasonable Eur 110 – considering the caliber and quality of the whisky!

What do the folks at Gordon & MacPhail have to say?

  • Cask Type Refill Sherry butts
  • Colour Dark Gold
  • Aroma Notes of brown sugar-covered stewed raisins mingle with hints of roasted hazelnuts. Delicate floral aromas are complemented by sweet vanilla and freshly cut dry hay.
  • Taste Full and fruity; stewed apple, cinnamon, and clove flavours come to the fore initially. Ripe summer berries emerge and combine with fresh mint highlights and refined toasted malt undertones.
  • Finish Long with lingering charred oak and a subtle herbal undertone.

We tried it together in early January 2023 in Mumbai in an evening exploring “Swansong” drams:

And if you are curious about other Glenburgie tasting experiences? Read on…

From before the distillery was shut and rebuilt:

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Glenlivet Master Distiller’s Trio – Reserve, Solera Vatted, Small Batch

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Back in March 2020, I had a lovely colleague staying with me in Nurnberg, waiting for flights to open up so she could go to Singapore for her new assignment. As she was moving, all her household belongings were shipped except for the booze…. and she just so happened to have a trio of Glenlivet minis that made their way into my whisky cabinet.

They sat neglected for a few years until one evening, as the snow fell outside, nearly three years later, it just seemed to be the right time to crack them open… So what did I think?

“Smooth & Complex” Glenlivet Master Distiller’s Reserve 40%

  • Nose – Light spice, coconut, hint of fruit
  • Palate – Soft, watery honey
  • Finish – Light, faintly bitter

I have to admit it’s been some time since I’ve had something quite so mass-produced. One could call it “delicate”, another description would be “insipid”… either way it was quite light, simple, and smooth however not in the least bit complex. Clearly, I wouldn’t fully agree with their ‘tag’ for this particular dram – Smooth? Sure. Complex? Nope.

What do the folks at Glenlivet say?

Maturation in the three different types of cask gives this expression its unique depth of flavour that includes creamy coconut, soft fudge, dried fruit and spicy richness.

Created for travel retail, it was launched with Alan Winchester, who has been Master Distiller at the distillery since 2009. He created this whisky with European oak butts and first-fill American barrels as well as refill hoggies.

“Intense & Velvety” – Glenlivet Master Distiller’s Reserve – Solera Vatted 40%

  • Nose – Toffee, malt, a bit of apple pie, a dash of spice, salty caramel
  • Palate – Light spice, orchard fruits, some fudge
  • Finish – Slightly bitter, some spice, chased by honey

Much more interesting! Though subtle, it grows on you – particularly the nose and finish. Whilst I wouldn’t call it “intense” (after all, I’m a cask strength kinda gal), it was quite velvety smooth.

What do the folks at Glenlivet say?

The finished single malt whiskies are brought together in our Solera Vat, which is never emptied, producing a whisky with intense layers, velvety character and a honeyed sweetness.

Another travel retail offering, released in the summer of 2015 and is no longer readily available, Once upon a time, it retailed for approx GBP 60.

“Delicately Spiced” – Glenlivet Master Distiller’s Reserve – Small Batch 40%, Batch No 9378/005 ex-Sherry in American oak

  • Nose – Malty, fruits, vanilla, a touch nutty
  • Palate – Much spicier – in a good way, some marmalade, raisins
  • Finish – Again a bit bitter, then shifts into fruits and nuts

Spicier than the other two, the oak influence is quite pronounced. One could also catch the clear sherry element too.

What do they say?

Released and bottled in small uniquely numbered batches, some of our finest and rarest whiskies come together to create a perfectly balanced malt with warm fruity flavours and hints of spiciness.

Another Travel Retail market release (approx GBP 80), the Master Distiller’s Reserve Small Batch is made with various casks – first-fill ex-Sherry, first-fill American oak casks, etc.

Obviously, the Distillers Reserve didn’t exactly “make the cut” for me… however, I enjoyed the Solera Vatted and Small Batch with the aromas of the Solera comforting whereas the palate of the Small Batch was more interesting. Whilst I won’t be running out to buy Glenlivet travel retail anytime soon, however it was a nice reminder of why these folks have such popularity.

As for other Glenlivet tastings? Check out:

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Swansong – Cambus 29 year, Glenburgie 21 year, Tullabardine 29 year

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Most would be familiar with the term “Swansong” which is the final performance of what was hopefully an illustrious career! This was the theme of a very special whisky-tasting evening early January 2023 in Mumbai – all liquid that marked the “end” of a distillery or that particular “avatar” of the distillery. To make it even more interesting, all were also from “indie” bottlers – from well-established, large-scale to newer, very small-scale.

What did I pick for this carefully curated evening?

Cambus 29 year (1990 / 2020) ex Bourbon Cask No. 93596 52% (Elixir, The Whisky Trail Retro) Lowland

The most obvious example is Cambus distillery. This grain distillery had a mixed history of highs and lows, closing in 1993 with the distillery completely demolished to eventually make way for Diageo’s cooperage.

From Elixir (aka Sukhinder Singh’s continued ventures), the bottle I picked is from their “Whisky Trail Retro” series with fun “Mario gameboy” style labels. Already sold out in the UK, I managed to snag this bottle in Europe for EUR 140 (+tax/shipping). Here I must admit that I was inspired by the remarkable Cambus 29 year tasted at Paris Whisky Live.

Glenburgie 21 year 43% (Gordon & Macphail Distillery Labels) Speyside

Glenburgie is still producing whisky, however, this particular bottle came from before production stopped in 2000, with the distillery being completely rebuilt in 2003/04. Making this spirit from a previous “avatar” of the distillery. My experience with Glenburgies from this period is very positive – summery drams with warm peaches, elegant and classy.

Here I selected a bottle from Gordon & Macphail who do more than “bottle”, they also have a hand in the casks used to mature the whisky. In this case, they also have the “right” to use the distillery label. I purchased this bottle in early 2021 for Eur 110 (+tax/shipping) and have been impatiently waiting for the right opportunity to open! 

Tullabardine 29 year 47.5% (Chorlton) Highland

Last, but certainly not least! I chose to close with a whisky from Tuillabardine distillery. Again you could argue “But hey, they are still producing whisky!” And you would be (partly) correct… however the distillery was completely “mothballed” back in 1995 and wasn’t re-opened for production until 2003. 

My choice for bottler was clear – the very creative Chorlton indie bottler with his eye-catching medieval labels and consistently quality drams. This bottle was acquired in Europe for EUR 200 (+tax/shipping), certainly steeper than my usual choice, but simply couldn’t resist!

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Paris Whisky Live – Mortlach 16 year

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Next in our Paris Whisky Live wanderings was a brief brush with Mortlach… There were other whiskies on offer however ours was a brief “pitstop” before continuing on to other explorations…

Mortlach 16 year 43.4%

  • Nose – Heavy sherry, plums, Christmas cake drenched in whisky, robust
  • Palate – Rich and intense, more plums, raisins, heavy sherry, sweet spices
  • Finish – A long strong finish
  • Water – More balanced and a bit creamy

We found this was a “turbo-charged” sherry bomb. Nothing subtle or nuanced about this one!

As for other experiences with Mortlach? Read on…

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Paris Whisky Live – Craigellachie 13 and 31 year

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Several whisky stands at Paris Whisky Live had special drams they made available with some fan fair! Such was the case with Craigellachie which had at a certain time one bottle of Craigellachie 31 year available to taste. Who could resist?

Of course, before going straight to the “rare stuff”, we chose to “warm up” with the Craigellachie 13…

Craigellachie 13 year 46% (approx Eur 61)

  • Nose – Tropical fruits – especially pineapples, some savoury sweet ham, sweet spices
  • Palate – Loads of character! Full-flaoured with both sweet fruits and tangy
  • Finish – Deeper and meatier than expected

At first, I thought – what a classic styled Speyside! And then realised this was far from the case as this Craigellachie was robust and savoury.

What do the Craigellachie folks have to say about their 13 year?

Craigellachie 13 Year Old evokes Bonfire Night: aromas of oozing toasted marshmallows, fire-roasted pineapples and baked apples studded with cloves, with the tang of cordite lingering in the background.

It was initially matured in a mix of ex-Bourbon and ex-Sherry casks, then the blend was split to be finished with half in 1st fill Sherry casks and the balance in 1st fill Bourbon casks.

Craigellachie 31 year 52.2% (approx Eur 2,330)

  • Nose – Loads of honey, some oak, fruity and sweet
  • Palate – Juicy warm peaches, some “top” spice, hot chocolate though a touch imbalanced – a bit “too much” of the different elements
  • Finish – Follows through with fruits, spice, and more sweetness
  • Water – Some lovely herbal quality came to the fore, and rounded out the palate nicely too!

It was like being enveloped in a warm wool sweater or blanket. At cask strength it is remarkable… with water it is beautiful. Well worth trying if you have a chance – though it is with a rather steep price tag!

When introduced, there was mention of a combination of both first fill and refill casks…  I think it was also, like the 13 year a combination of ex-bourbon and ex-sherry however don’t quote me on this! 🙂

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Paris Whisky Live – Royal Brackla 12, 18, 21 year

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After checking out the GlennAllachie range at Paris Whisky Live, we moved on to Royal Brackla. Overall we’ve had “happy” experiences with whiskies from this distillery. I was particularly pleased to see the range on offer was all at 46% – typically considered the “connoisseurs” strength as fro most whiskies it provides a nice “feel” for the whisky character without being “watered down” too much!

So what did we think of this trio of Royal Brackla 12, 18, and 21 year vintages?

Royal Brackla 12 year Oloroso 46% (approx Eur 67)

  • Nose – Fresh, with some citrus acidity, sherry Christmasy notes, a bit buttery
  • Palate – Full, fruity, some cherries or raisins
  • Finish – Honey followed by hay

I will admit I had fewer notes for this one than the balance… however I think checked the official tasting notes and would overall concur:

The full bodied spice of Oloroso and the bright summer breeze of Royal Brackla elegantly combine as a smooth and inviting dram – ripe peaches, black cherries, chocolate covered almonds and muscovado sugar.

Royal Brackla 18 year Palo Cortado 46% (approx Eur 148)

  • Nose – Started off a bit salty and spicy, dare I say like a nice aged cheddar, it was initially shy to reveal further notes but when it did – lovely!
  • Palate – Soft, delicious, juicy peaches, wonderful balance
  • Finish – Really quite fabulous – creamy, tangy, and lightly bitter with spice

Overall this was a luscious juicy indulgence – I didn’t note any cocoa powder however it was a mere “sniff and swish” as happens in such settings…

And where is the cocoa? Why in the official tasting notes:

Rich spices, creamy vanilla, big, succulent soft fruits and cocoa powder, brightened with a zing of citrus.

Royal Brackla 21 year Oloroso, Palo Cortado, PX 46% (approx Eur 250)

  • Nose – Caramel, toffee, rich vanilla ice cream, berries
  • Palate – Victoria sponge cake with jammy creamy icing and cake layers
  • Finish – Gorgeous! Long, strong, sherry

Overall we found this simply beautiful! A special treat… certainly not something for every day but a very special occasion.

As for the official tasting note? Would we agree? Most certainly!

Syrupy toffee notes, with richly fragrant summer berries warmed by the sun and dusted in cinnamon and muscovado sugar.

Curious about other Royal Brackla expressions? Check out:

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Paris Whisky Live – GlenAllachie 8 and 10 year

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After being blown away by the offerings at the Gordon & MacPhail booth – both discovery & Connoisseurs Choice – we needed a wee “bread, butter & cheese” break at Paris Whisky Live. Apparently, this is a “must” to serve booze – something to soak up a bit of the alcohol. Naturally, as this was Paris everything was insanely delicious!

Fortified and ready to head back into the fray, I thought what better way to continue than GlenAllachie! Why? Aside from their producing some damn fine drams, it was also the “lure’ of briefly catching up with Juliette Buchan – who I had first met in Singapore at Whisky Live when she was with Gordon & Macphail – see? Fitting.

We last met in person at Nurnberg’s The Village Whisky festival in early 2020 before everything locked down. It was such a contrast from the usual male-dominated whisky experiences to join the fabulous Sharing Angels – a diverse group of dram dames that meet up at various whisky events around Germany!

After that, things were rather quiet so I was thrilled to catch a virtual tasting of GlenAlachie whiskies with Juliette & Richard in Dec 2021 – and promptly acquired a quartet which are patiently waiting for the right tasting opportunity.

On offer in Paris was a rather nice quartet:

  • GlenAllachie 8 year 46% (approx Eur 47)
  • GlenAllachie 10 year Batch 7, 56.8% (approx Eur 58)
  • GlenAllachie 12 year 46% & GlenAllachie 15 year 46% – Both of which I skipped as had sampled in the virtual tasting plus have closed bottles waiting at home in Deutschland

At Juliette’s suggestion, I went straight to the 10-year cask strength which she shared was first matured in Virgin Oak before being finished in red wine casks.

  • Colour – So deep, it veered on walnut wood!
  • Nose – Forest feeling, leafy, nutty, honey-sweet, heavy dry fruits
  • Palate – Rich chocolate, flavourful, juicy, ginger – yum!
  • Finish – Sweet finish
  • Water – Opens up beautifully – fab!

There was no ignoring this dram! Full-bodied, and bursting with flavour, it was a concentrated dose of yummy goodness.

I then moved on to the 8 year which was matured in Pedro Ximénez and Oloroso sherry puncheons along with a small quantity of Virgin Oak casks and red wine barriques:

  • Colour – Dark bronze
  • Nose – Punchier than the 10 year, however also fresh, fruity, young and lighter
  • Palate – Soft at first then builds – think of creamy butterscotch ice cream with flecks of nuts and candied ginger
  • Finish – Here is where the sherry and wine influence is most pronounced

This one is deceptive. Particularly after the powerful 10 year cask strength, you might be tempted to consider it too “light”, however, it clearly holds its own. Great to have a chance to try it!

Curious about other GlenAllachie tasting experiences? Check out:

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Gordon + Macphail Connoisseurs Choice – Glendullan, Glenburgie, Caol Ila

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We continued our whisky explorations at the Gordon & Macphail stand at Paris Whisky Live, switching gears from their DIscover to Connoisseur Choice range with:

  • Glendullan 12 year (2009 / 2022) 45% (approx Eur 100)
  • Glenburgie 26 year (1995/2022) 1st fill Sherry Puncheon #6349, 56.8% (approx Eur 250)
  • Caol Ila 25 year (1996/2022) 1st fill Sherry Butt #16074, 59.2% (approx Eur 350)

Glendullan 12 year (2009 / 2022) 45% 3245 Bottles.

  • Nose – A burst of berries – sweet and inviting
  • Palate – Strong berry flavours – mostly raspberries with some cassis
  • Finish – Nice sweet and sour cherry plus berry finish

What more do we know? The bottle states that this whisky had its initial maturation in a refilled bourbon barrel, finished in Cote Rotie cask for 3 years. It must be the red wine that brought such distinctive berry flavours to the fore – my tasting notes are merely variations on a berry theme! Their official tasting notes share a bit more with:

Dried strawberry aromas give way to roasted peanuts and crystallised violet. Rasperry compote flavours combine with liquorice and red apple. A medium-bodied finish with citrus and red berries.

Glenburgie 26 year (1995/2022) 1st fill Sherry Puncheon # 6349, 56.8% 564 Bottles.

  • Nose – Beautiful elegant pear, lovely sherry elements, some marmalade
  • Palate – Gorgeous! Lovely balanced palate, complex, nuanced, fruity, yet at the same time “heavy” and nutty
  • Finish – Again – stunning! Full fruit flavours, long, strong with hint of spice

I’m already partial to this Speyside distillery – with Glenburgie fixed in my mind as the “Downton Abbey” of whiskies – something that harkens back to an earlier era, still with some character and spunk but overlaid with a summery elegance. Everything that I love about Glenburgie was evident here – its age merely augmenting all the elements I’ve grown to love.

What more do we know? The label indicates this was a single cask 1st fill Sherry Puncheon – clearly responsible for the full flavours found in this impressive whisky. Their official tasting notes state:

Sweet raisin aromas combine with orange peel and fruitcake. Sultana flavours emerge alongside pepper and toasted hazelnuts. A full finish with spice.

Caol Ila 25 year (1996/2022) 1st fill Sherry Butt #16074, 59.2% 555 bottles

  • Nose – Cured meat, bacon, bonfire, sweet, heavy maple
  • Palate – A proper “campfire” dram – all those meaty aromas and sweet maple combine
  • Finish – An incredibly sweet peat feat! Some chilli chased by sweet cinnamon
  • Water – Whilst I only had a small sample, I added a drop. Wow! Brings such balance to every element – fabulous!

I was careful in my tasting order – sampling all the non-peated whiskies before turning first to the Discovery Range Caol Ila then this Connoisseurs Choice single cask. It made for a nice progression with this 25 year old being absolutely spectacular. Well worth sampling if you have the chance.

The official tasting notes are a great reflection of what to expect:

Raspberry compote aromas give way to festive spices and smoke. Cured meat flavours complement summer fruit and orange peel. A full finish with black pepper and bonfire embers.

Well done Gordon & Macphail with all three! None of the Connoisseurs Choice expressions disappointed and I appreciated that they kept two vintage single casks for the “main floor”, not just featuring such rare whiskies in the VIP section.

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Paris Whisky Live – Gordon + Macphail Discovery Tomatin, Miltonduff+ Caol Ila

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In early 2021, I decided to start acquiring some bottles for future tasting sessions and thought it was past time to pick up a few of Gordon & Macphail’s Discovery range of affordable “entry” drams. I picked a Glenrothes & Miltonduff. They have waited patiently in Germany for the right opportunity – either to taste with others there or bring home to India.

However, naturally, I’ve been rather curious and so was happy to have a chance to try one of them at Paris Whisky Live! On my 2nd day, we whetted our tasting appetite with a few French drams then made our way to the Gordon & Macphail stand and kicked off our explorations with this trio…

As shared with the London Whisky Show, the Discovery line was created for a place to begin your discovery of whisky at a reasonable price point, with colour-coded expressions to help guide the approach… In Paris we tried:

  • Green for ex-bourbon casks – Tomatin (2009/2021) 43% (approx Eur 44)
  • Purple for ex-sherry casks – Miltonduff 10 year 43% (approx Eur 55)
  • Grey/off-white for smokey/peaty – Caol Ila 13 year 43% (approx Eur 55)

We followed the suggested order: ex-bourbon, ex-sherry and then peaty….

Tomatin (2009/2021) 43%

  • Nose – Light and classic ex-bourbon style, fresh green apple, pears, vanilla cream
  • Palate – Keeps on the same light, fruity and happy vein, oaky, more vanilla
  • Finish – Gentle – fruity, floral, honey

A rather nice example of ex-bourbon…. call it a perfect aperitif.

What about the sherry expression? We sampled the Miltonduff 10 year 43%

  • Nose – Fruity, orange, woodsy, citrus
  • Palate – Medium-bodied, tasty buttery caramel, marmalade, cinnamon
  • Finish – More of that yummy marmalade

A nice Speyside and I will very much enjoy revisiting it and discovering more when eventually the Gordon & Macphail Discovery range is opened up at home!

Curious to know more? Check out what Gordon & Macphail have to say here.

As for the peaty, they chose a classic Caol Ila 13 year 43%:

  • Nose – Fab peat, banana, sweet grass, maple bacon, cured sweetmeats
  • Palate – Soft, completely peaty, fruity
  • Finish – Long sweet and smoky

Now, this is a “proper” Caol Ila – what fun! You can also find out more about this expression from Gordon & Macphail’s whisky archive here.

What a nice way to whet our appetite for Gordon & Macphail’s Connoisseurs Choice range – which was our next stop!

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Darkness Sherry – Mortlach, Blair Athol, Cambus

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At Paris Whisky Live 2022, the VIP section had an area dedicated to Atom Brands – best known for That Boutique-y Whisky Company which was celebrating its 10th anniversary! However, they also featured their Darkness range of intensely sherried whiskies.

Is it OK if I confess to being a bit confused about their new “Darkness” range? After all, That Boutique-y already has their well-known Whiskies, Gin, and now also rum… so why not build a twist on this? Nope! True to form, they don’t do the predictable.. instead created a completely new brand for intensely sherry whiskies – both limited edition vintage and then another line which are matured for only 8 years.

As they explain, their approach for their Limited Editions is:

Finished in Octave Casks that may have held any type of sherry wine, our Head of Whisky explores specific finishes (Oloroso, Palo Cortado, Pedro Ximenez, Moscatel or Manzanilla) chosen for their ability to enhance individual distillery characteristics.

These are unrepeatable releases that have each undertaken Darkness’ signature liquid transformation in tiny octave sherry casks.

As always, what matters most is what is in the glass! On offer in Paris was:

  • Mortlach 20 year 49% (Darkness) EUR 171 for 500ml
  • Blair Athol 18 year 49.4% (Darkness) EUR 105 for 500ml
  • Cambus 29 year 45.7% (Darkness) EUR 145 for 500ml

As it was just a sniff and swish, please forgive the light impressions… however enough to hope there will be future opportunities to explore further!

So… where did I begin? With the Mortlach naturally!

Mortlach 20 year 49%

  • Nose – A burst of flavours! Loads of sweet dry fruits, chocolate
  • Palate – Amazingly rich. Gorgeous and delicious – nothing shy about this Mortlach!
  • Finish – Resinous and rewarding, mocha

If this Mortlach was any indication, calling this an “intense” range was spot on! Stunning and well worth exploring. A mighty and most enjoyable Mortlach malt.

I then moved on to the Blair Athol….

Blair Athol 18 year 49.4%

  • Nose – Oh my! Also quite the sherry bomb! Strong sherry elements – dark fruits, nutty
  • Palate – Yum! Superb. Figs and nuts, like an indulgent chocolate bar
  • Finish – Fruity, caramel

A clear stamp of Olorosso sherry! And frankly, simply delicious.

And last but certainly not least, an aged grain from the closed Cambus distillery.

Cambus 29 year 45.7%

  • Nose – Initially quite shy, then opened up to a lovely fruit basket
  • Palate – Complex, creamy, subtly sweet
  • Finish – Soft finish

After the incredibly robust Mortlach and Blair Athol, it was quite a shift to this Cambus. However, once my senses adjusted to something softer and gentler, could appreciate the lovely nuanced character.

What an interesting trio! Whilst I miss the fun That Boutique-y Whisky Company labels can appreciate the quality of the liquid in the Darkness bottles!

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