Kentucky Bourbon – W L Weller Special Reserve 45%

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Next up in our Kentucky straight bourbon revisit is Buffalo Trace Distillery‘s W. L. Weller Special Reserve. As they put it “made in Kentucky, enjoyed worldwide.”

W L Weller Special Reserve

As usual, we sampled it blind and here is what we found…

W L Weller Special Reserve

  • Colour – Dark burnished copper
  • Nose – Banana toffee, sweet vanilla, caramel
  • Palate – Spicy honey sweetness, perhaps a pinch of nutmeg? (some disagreed)
  • Finish – Warm
  • Add water – Even spicier, then mellowed out

Comments:

  • “One track… one direction.”
  • “A lot more body than a regular Bourbon.”
  • “Has all the ‘ticks’ for bourbon…. though a bit predictable.”

Unveiling: Straight bourbon with wheat substituting for rye.

Like many other bourbons, what is eminently reasonable as a daily dram in the US is well neigh impossible to find and hardly affordable in India.

Part of the Sazerac stable, this is what the Buffalo Trace folks have to say about their bourbon:

The Original Wheated Bourbon Whiskey features an exceptionally smooth taste, substituting wheat for rye grain. Bottled at 90 proof, this bourbon stands out with its burnt orange color. Its softer flavor notes make this bourbon great for sipping or making cocktails.

TASTING NOTES:

A sweet nose with a presence of caramel. Tasting notes of honey, butterscotch, and a soft woodiness. It’s smooth, delicate and calm. Features a smooth finish with a sweet honeysuckle flair.

Here’s what others have to say about WL Weller:

Other whiskies in our Kentucky bourbon evening included:

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Kentucky Bourbon – A jazzy night in Singapore with Elijah Craig

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After a rather brilliant evening in Singapore with jazz and Elijah Craig, I thought it time to pull up from the archives tasting notes from an evening focused on exploring Kentucky straight bourbon…

(Photo: Whisky Exchange)

(Photo: Whisky Exchange)

Taking our usual approach we tried ‘blind’ then unveiled!

Elijah Craig 12 year 47%

  • Nose – Corn, medicinal, banana, wet leather
  • Palate – Sweet spice
  • Finish – Says hello and then flits off
  • Add water – Spice!!!!

We sampled back in the day when this was still a 12 year bourbon. Now it has been replaced with a NAS version which they say contains whiskey between 8 to 12 years….

We found that it is just what we’ve come to expect from a bourbon! Nothing complicated or nuanced, just good old straight up Kentucky bourbon. And if you happen to be in the US, its cheap too!

Jim Murray has said:

“About as complete a bourbon aroma as you are likely to find…one of the most beautiful noses found anywhere in the world today. A bourbon to keep in the mouth forever.” 

Mike over at Whisky Lately has this to say about Elijah Craig:

Elijah Craig 12 is named after Bourbon folk hero Reverend Elijah Craig. The commercial legend is that Rev. Elijah Craig was the creator of Bourbon. An early Kentucky distiller, he founded his distillery around 1789, but the story goes he was first to give Bourbon its unique characteristics. Apparently some of his whiskey barrels became charred in a fire, which is a key process in the making of modern Bourbon. The accidental results were apparently favorable, and thus, Bourbon was born. That’s most likely not true, but every Bourbon needs a story and that’s a good one.

What others have to say about Elijah Craig:

Other whiskies sampled during our Kentucky straight bourbon evening included:

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Winnipeg Cabinet’s Paul John Peated experience

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Yes another Paul John post, however it is such a treat to be able to share this tropical delight from Goa, India in my country of birth – Canada!

We’ve enjoyed more than one Paul John‘s Select Cask Peated:

  • 1st bottle graced two tasting occasions – an evening with our original tasting group with partners and then revisited with a mad bunch of friends
  • 2nd bottle made its appearance with the Whisky Ladies Goan send-off in December 2015. It was completely memorable and created a fan following amongst the Whisky Ladies…. so much so that one of our intrepid lasses made the trek to the distillery doors to help source further bottles…
  • 3rd bottle wound its way from Goa to Mumbai to London to Toronto and finally Winnipeg for a special peaty evening with the lads from The Cabinet

Paul John Select Cask Peated

Here’s a few impressions from the Canadian evening with a bottle from the 2016 batch:

  • Nose – Fruit, flowers and tropics, raisins, some toffee coffee, then back to fruit… dark cherries, berries with curl of smoke
  • Palate – Rum… did we mention rum? Exceedingly smooth, smoky yet sweet
  • Finish – Smoke tar with a sweet chaser…

Now my companions must have wondered a bit as I kept (annoyingly) going on about “where’s the delicious bacon??” Between the 1st batch and this batch, the gorgeous yummy glazed ham, back-bacon drizzled in maple syrup was… well… notably absent. Don’t get me wrong, it is still a rather good dram but oh… that meaty peaty sweetness I was greedily looking forward to was simply… different.

I returned to India to confer with my fellow Whisky Ladies – sure enough they all had the same reaction. Still a mighty fine whisky, still very enjoyable however…. “where is the bacon???”

My friends at the Cabinet had no such pre-conceived notions. And it was therefore all the more enjoyable to experience afresh through their reactions what Paul John has to offer to the world of whisky!

Here’s what they had to say…

And finally the genesis of the peat theme this evening: Carissa had brought a bottle of Paul John peated single malt whisky from Goa, India. Yes, Goa. It’s hard to imagine a locale less associated with single malt in most people’s minds. Right up there with Fiji or Egypt. But indeed, since 2012 there has been a distillery in Goa and what a distillery.
PaulJohnPeatedTo those of you for whom Indian whisky means Amrut and for whom Amrut is a byword for crap, Paul John is a revelation. Not only is it not crap, but it is in fact very good. Not only is the quality a surprise, but the entire whisky is a surprise.
To begin with, although peated malt was apparently used, the peat character is completely submerged under an intense sweet dark fruit flavour overlay, like raisins, like molasses, like… rum. This whisky tastes like a lovely aged rum. Perhaps an 18 year old Flor de Cana.
And the colour. For a whisky whose oldest components cannot be more than four years it has the deep mahogany colour of a 21 year old sherry cask finish. Apparently the tropical heat greatly accelerates aspects of the aging process.
And then finally the alcohol. This is a 55.5% fire bomb, yet none of us added water. The rummy sweetness smooths it and softens it. 
Very interesting. Thank you Carissa! It’s really an “apples and oranges” scenario when it comes to comparisons with traditional scotch whiskies. In fact last night the Rosebank and Paul John beautifully illustrated opposite ends of a series of spectrums: old and new, light and dark, astringent and sweet, austere and complex. As the rhinos dwindle away other species begin to proliferate…

Thank you Cabinet gents for a most memorable evening in Winnipeg! And thank you once again Michael of Paul John for the bottle that made its way from my adopted home to the city of my birth.

Interested in what else we sampled? Read on…

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Winnipeg’s Cabinet Talisker Storm NAS 45.8%

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Talisker jumped on the NAS marketing bandwagon some time ago… and has its fair share of fans and detractors for their expressions.

Recently, we sampled the Talisker 57° North 57% and were not massively impressed with the ‘sardines on saltines’ experience.

A few years back, I took a gamble on the travel retail Talisker Dark Storm – Storm’s deeper charred sibling. Sampled blind when first opened, it was found rather yummy. Sampled later, less flattering… but as time went by, strangely it’s burnt wood medicinal quality became a popular party favourite til the last drop.

So what then of its earlier Stormy avatar without the extra ‘dark’ barrel charring?

I just so happened to sample it as part of a peaty themed evening with the lads over at Winnipeg’s The Cabinet.Talisker Storm

Impressions from the evening?

  • Nose – Some sea breeze with our peat, iodine sweet, surprisingly ‘fresh’ with a hint of pepper
  • Palate – Watered down sweet peat, strangely not smokey, pleasant though a little ‘rough’ around the edges, back to the briny quality
  • Finish – Sweet, dry with vestiges of peat

Overall? Sweet peat, understated with a ‘raw’ alcohol quality, a sense of being under developed.

For myself? I found myself wishing I could try Dark Storm and Storm side by side… Which would win out?

What did the lads over at Winnipeg’s The Cabinet have to say:

It was with a great deal of trepidation that I selected a bottle of Talisker “Storm” for this evening. Don’t get me wrong, Talisker is a true classic, but their forays into marketing department driven branding make The Cabinet nervous. Storm? What does that actually mean in a whisky context? Only rainwater collected in winter gales used? Distillery now placed on a herring trawler? Fie.

But no matter. We decided that the poor master distiller had this name forced upon a product that he still created with the same care, attention and craftsmanship as its more sensibly named predecessors. And we were right.

Here was balance. Here was complexity. Here was the sea and the land and the peat and the wood and everything we love about scotch whisky. 7.7; high up in the Three Drams range.

And oh, the medicinal effect? Talisker is well known for its ortho-cresol content. Ortho-cresol as in creosote. As in coal tar. Toxic, corrosive, kind of nasty and oh so tasty. And quite the opposite of healthy. We just had to cap the evening by being contrary.

Read on for more Talisker tasting experiences….

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Winnipeg Cabinet’s Ledaig 10 year 46.3%

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This is my third encounter with Ledaig from Tobermory distillery on the Isle of Mull however earlier tasting were with more mature avatars:

I had no idea the Ledaig 10 year would be part of our Cabinet Peat session… and had already on my Winnipeg trip enjoyed a dram (or two) after persuading my sister’s partner to pick up a bottle during our Liquor Mart jaunt.

My reason for suggesting it remains – it is an affordable, eminently drinkable peaty dram. It may not be the most sophisticated, complex or nuanced whisky out there but it is well made and good value for money. One you can simply kick back and enjoy with friends.

So what did I find with the Cabinet lads?

Ledaig 10

Ledaig 10 year 46.3%

  • Nose – Wet dog fur, curd, faint leather, fresh-cut watermelon rind, grass, sweeter as it opens without loosing its briney salty quality
  • Palate – Exceedingly… nay almost dangerously drinkable, warm, peaty, chewy leather strap, not as sweet as I remembered the more mature Ledaig’s as being, yet oh so easy to keep sipping…
  • Finish – A bit astringent, dry, phenol, smoke, some peppercorns and dry sweet spices

Overall pronounced to be akin to a rather good entry level Islay. Though  technically it is from the Highland Island sub-region… but who is quibbling…

What do the distillery folks have to say?

  • Nose – Sweet briny smokiness with distinct island character and playful notes that hint at mild antiseptic, creosote, wax polish, mint chocolate and floral seaside aromas. Soft peat, gentle smoke.
  • Palate – Tantalisingly sweet, medicinal flavours infused with enticing sparks of spicy pepper and dried fruit with rich peaty smoke and a velvety vanilla and malty creaminess.
  • Finish – A wondrous union of sublimely spicy white pepper, the vibrant sweetness of liquorice and a kick of cloves with a exquisite lingering saltiness.

More importantly, what did the lads over at The Cabinet have to say when they first sampled it?

Next was the Ledaig 10 year old, which won “Best Islands Single Malt”.  Being an Islands malt it is very different, and thus perhaps not to everyone’s personal taste, but as far as the distiller’s craft within the style goes, this hits the mark.

In fact it compares favourably to the standard bearers such as Laphroaig (I know, obviously an Islay, not an “Islands”, but the flavour profile is very similar). If you enjoy the smoky nose and the salt tang with a touch of creosote on the palate, then consider the Ledaig as an alternative to Laphroaig. Let us be clear, we love Laphroaig, but sometimes you may just want to have something different on hand.

Surprise your whisky drinking guests. Take one small sideways step out of your comfort zone. Live a little. The Ledaig scored 6.7, also a good Three Drams.

Also sampled at the Winnipeg’s Cabinet ‘peat’ evening:

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Winnipeg’s Cabinet Rosebank 21 year (1990/2011) 53.8%

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One tradition of the Winnipeg Whisky Cabinet is to offer the guest an opportunity to chose from the open bottles an ‘appetizer’ whisky to warm up the palate for the evening goodies.

Neatly written in alphabetical order by distillery, the list was impressive with a range of affordable familiar friends to one that made me go  ‘I can’t believe you have this!’

Clearly that was the one I selected…

The Cabinet Whisky List

Discontinued distilleries have a certain mystique about them. Even if not brilliant drams, the very fact that what you try today will be gone tomorrow and never to be replaced, adds a certain bittersweet element to the equation.

My past trysts with Rosebank were limited and mixed – largely as were from highly oxidated bottles that had remained on the shelf a little too long. However, a softer, more delicate dram isn’t such a bad way to start an evening… particularly if we would be continuing with a peaty theme…

What were some of the impressions from our Cabinet evening?

Rosebank 21 year (1990 / 2011), Bottle 1789 53.8%

  • Nose – Sweet perfume, quite herbal, drizzle of honey, yet also salty with a clear alcohol chaser, a bit of malt started to push forward
  • Palate – Hot and sour then mellowed into a solid yet soft whisky
  • Finish – Lightly citrus with little else

Overall, it had a bit of a muted “burst of sunshine” quality. It may be relatively simple yet it is well crafted. I couldn’t help but wonder how it was when first opened…

Rosebank 21

What does the bottle have to say?

Light-bodied, this pale gold 21 year old comes from a last golden age at the distillery. Soft, fruity aromas on the nose give way to a delicate, even rose-scented, floral character. The palate is tongue-tingling, clean and fresh, becoming silky with a little water before a soft, flowery sweetness and lemony acidity lead to a round, drying finish.

Here is what the Cabinet lad’s shared:

Carissa selected the Rosebank 21 year old, a lowland whisky from a now shuttered distillery. This is a fiery cask strength whisky with the classic lightly herbal and floral lowland profile backed up by a solid malt core. It is not special in that is in no way complex or exciting, but it is special in that the distillery no longer exists. We drained the last few drops from the last bottle we will likely ever have. The sensation was somewhat akin to eating a baby northern white rhino.

Just curious, I took a peak at auction prices for this bottle… which were averaging in 2016 around US$650. Far steeper than my whisky indulgence budget so I was all the more grateful to have sampled a dram courtesy of the Cabinet.

Also quaffed at the Winnipeg “Cabinet” evening:

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Old Pulteney 21 Year 46%

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A year ago, I had the distinct pleasure of attending a master class with Inver House Master Distiller Stuart Harvey.

Our evening featured three whiskies being launched in India:

However there was a special treat waiting in the wings to pair with desert… The award winning Old Pulteney 21 year!

Photo: OldPulteney.com

Photo: OldPulteney.com

Here’s what I found:

  • Nose – Salty spice, all that maritime delight in the 12 year brought into focus, made richer, fruitier yet with a spicy earthy undertone
  • Palate – Super smooth, exceedingly well-balanced, sweet, smoke, chewy… in short delicious!
  • Finish – Light turmeric, a bit bitter yet lovely, made you return for more….

Stuart shared that typically a 21 year would loose 50% to the angels share… noting that generally in Scotland, one loses 2% per year, yet after the 12th year the rate begins to slow down and, particularly for barrels maturing by the sea, can even re-absorb the salty sea moisture, adding to the character.

Specifically, for the 21 year, Stuart noted it is matured in Spanish oak, pairs well with chocolate and, unfortunately, would not be available in India as they have a limited volume. Audible sighs could be heard throughout the room!

Stuart did share that they will be bringing out more single casks in 2016 as “some are worth it.”

As he put it – nothing beats the combination of having a “good cask maturing a good new make spirit.”

Official tasting notes:

  • Appearance – Golden amber with straw highlights
  • Nose – Full bodied with traces of fruits (apples and pears); slightly fragrant with spicy overtones.
  • Taste – Creamy, toffee, vanilla, baked red apple with a hint of smokiness and a dry finish.
  • Profile – Toffee, vanilla, spice, hint of smoke

Want to explore more Old Pulteney tasting experiences?

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Whisky Lady – July 2016

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Carissa Hickling's avatarEveryday Asia

July was honestly just a lot of fun. Just as June was full of travels, July was very much Mumbai focused.

Glenkinchie, Clynelish, Jura, Cardhu, Ardbeg

Our original club and Bombay Malt & Cigar club took a break, however no mere monsoon could hold back our intrepid Whisky Ladies who tackled 5 whisky regions with:

Togouchi, Nikka, Yoichi, Kavalan

A long pending invite lead to a lovely evening sampling Far East whiskies with:

  • Togouchi Kiwami 40% – A most sake-like whisky! Grain from Canada and malt from Scotland, matured and blended in…

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Wimp vs Connoisseur – Whisky strengths

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Recently I was part of a short clip for a travel and leisure program. During our whisky sampling, the topic of whisky strength was raised.

Now, for a Scotch whisky to be considered a whisky, it requires a minimum alcohol strength of 40%.

I was reminded of an amusing exchange over a set of whiskies all at 40%:

“For some time now I’ve found that anything that’s around the low 40s%…. I’m like…” 
“You pansy?”
“Yes” 
“You wimpy excuse of a whisky?”
“Well yes…” 
“You why don’t you get some balls and up the strength??”
“Err… yes actually. At least 46%.”

Today when you look at whisky bottles, you will see a range of strengths from the 40% minimum, to many at 43%, to quite a few at 46% and then varying strengths leading up to powerful ones even higher than 60%!

Whisky strength? 46%

Whisky strength? 46%

I will admit to a personal preference for cask strength whiskies as it enables me to calibrate through trial and error to discover as the optimal balance between alcohol and water for my palate.

However there is something to be said for the ‘experts’ making this call.

Hence I quite appreciate when distilleries up their strength beyond 43% to find the ‘optimal’ level for that particular expression.

It has even been said that the default ‘connoisseur’ level is 46%. Two reasons:

  • For many, this is an ideal strength where one can comfortably have it neat yet also ‘open’ the whisky with a few drops of water
  • Typically at 46% and above, there is also no need to chill filter to keep the whisky from looking ‘cloudy’

It is no surprise then that many independent bottlers start at 46% and many distillers too are opting to bottling at 46%… Think Arran’s 12 year, Kilchoman’s Machir Bay and Glendronach’s 15 year.

Would you agree?

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BenRiach 15 year (1999/2015) Cask #44016, 55.1%

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So… what was the whisky recommended at Toad in the Hole pub’s Whisky Bar? A limited release BenRiach sold only in Manitoba at our provincial liquor mart.

Yup… you read that correctly. The independent whisky makers over at the BenRiach distillery decided Manitobans deserved their very own cask #44016.

BenRiach 1999

BenRiach 15 year (1999/2015) 55.1%

Cask no 44016, bottle 163 of 208

  • Nose – Warm cinnamon, pears, butter pecan, soft rum, apple crisp… think warm butterscotch
  • Palate – Very approachable – a little nutty, vanilla and cream “I’m in my happy place now”… imagine that butterscotch now generously poured over a high quality rich high-fat vanilla ice cream
  • Finish – Quite pleasant with light dancing nutty spice

The only problem? It was gone too quickly!

On the bottle, it was described as:

Green apple skins and pears complemented by a lively barley character, all warmed by a gentle spice finish with overtones of almond and vanilla. 

Here is what the Manitoba Liquor Mart has to say:

EXCLUSIVE to Manitoba Liquor Mart! This specially selected product has been resting in a first-fill Bourbon cask in the famed Scottish Speyside region from 1999 until its bottling in April, 2015. On the nose a sweet floral oak note explodes to heather-honey, lemon, apples and poached pears, all of which is surrounded by the richness of dark vanilla pod, toasted coconut and notes of crème brûlée. On the palate, green apple skins and pears are complemented by a lively barley character, all warmed by a gentle spice finish with overtones of almond and vanilla.

 As for me? Very happy to have the privilege of sampling this dram!

Other BenRiach tastings:

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