Tag Archives: Highland Park

2025 Whisky Show – Decadent Drams Highland, Speyside + Orkney

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Decadent Drinks has become a favourite at whisky shows for great conversations, a fabulous range of new and rare whiskies. The 2025 London Whisky Show experience was no exception. Our first day began with them, and our last day closed there too.

Between the start and finish, we had a couple of pit stops. During one, we explored some of their non-dream dram “Decadent Dram” expressions with :

  • Highland (Deanston) 27 year (1997/2025) Refill Hogshead 50.4% (Decadent Drams) 2025 Whisky Show GBP 278
  • Speyside (Glen Moray) 10 year (2014/2025) 57.1% (Decadent Drams) 2025 Whisky Show GBP 95
  • Old Orkney (Highland Park) 25 year (1999 / 2025) 50.3% (Decadent Drinks) 2025 Whisky Show GBP 345

Without further ado, let’s get on with the whiskies, shall we?

Highland (Deanston) 27 year (1997 / 2025) Refill hogshead 50.4% 

  • Nose – A clear classic, all those lovely Highland notes, a real beauty!
  • Palate – Well-rounded, fruity, and balanced… everything in harmony
  • Finish – Nice with a gentle spice

Whilst I’m not always a Deanston fan, this expression was spectacular. Narry a hint of that slightly industrial element I sometimes find with Deanston. This was elegant, exceptional, and such a treat to taste!

Speyside (Glen Moray) 10 year (2014/2025) 57.1% 

  • Nose – Fruity, full yet not too much
  • Palate – Bold but not forceful, complex, juicy, rich, stewed fruits, sweet yet not cloying, creamy milk chocolate
  • Finish – Salty, sweet, with a bit of gentle, fragrant leaves

Again, whilst we aren’t always Glen Moray fans, this was way beyond expectations. For a distillery that pumps out the (relatively) cheap stuff, this was top shelf.

This wasn’t our first Old Orkney expression. We tried their 20-year-old expression at the 2024 Whisky Show, so we were curious to see what their 4th bottling in this series was all about!

Old Orkney (Highland Park) 25 year (1999 / 2025) 50.3% 

  • Nose – Heather, light leather, peat, and sweet with dark fruits
  • Palate – Yummy! Lovely rich sherry, backed by a gentle peat
  • Finish – Lovely and lingers

Practically in unison, we shared our impression that this was what Highland Park used to be!

What more do we know? This 25-year-old was mostly matured in refill wood, then its final six years, it was matured in a very old 1st fill, ex-bodega, oloroso sherry butt. 

And there you have it – another delicious trio from Decadent Drinks!

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2025 Whisky Show – Gordon and MacPhail

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Over the years, I’ve looked forward to the Gordon & MacPhail stand at any whisky show. The folks there know their stuff and have remarkable stuff to share too! With 130 years in the business, one could count on both great insights and great liquid, making spending time there a real highlight.

And then came the announcement in 2023 that the team would cease independent bottling – stopping the purchase of new make spirit from 2024 – to focus on their distilleries: Benromach and The Cairn. Whilst they still have a prodigious amount of stock maturing, it was a clear signal of change. Backing this up, they were notably absent at London’s 2024 Whisky Show.

All to say – we were pleasantly surprised to see their return at London’s 2025 Whisky Show.

Having previously sampled the Auchroisk and Miltonduff from their Discovery line, and it being too early in the day for the peaty Ledaig, we went directly to the Connoisseurs Choice range. What did we try?

  • Linkwood 15 year (2009 / 18 Nov 2024) Batch 24/036 1st Fill Sherry Hogshead Cask #22605907 53.8% (G&MP Connoisseurs Choice – UK Exclusive) 329 Bottles, 2025 Whisky Show £127
  • Balblair 31 year (1993 / 29 Aug 2024) Batch 24/020, First Fill Sherry Puncheon Cask #1961 49.5% (G&MP Connoisseurs Choice) 549 Bottles, 2025 Whisky Show £710
  • Tamnavulan 31 year (1991 / 12 Dec 2022) Batch 23/002 Refill Sherry Puncheon Cask #9040502 51.79% (G&MP Connoisseurs Choice) 418 Bottles, 2025 Whisky Show £711
  • Glenrothes 16 year (2009 / 6 Jun 2025) Batch 25/016, 1st Fill Sherry Hogshead Cask #19602410 55.5% (G&MP Connoisseurs Choice) 2025 Whisky Show £138
  • Highland Park 17 year (2007 / 3 June 2025) Batch 25/017, 1st Fill Sherry Butt Cask #5358 59.9% (G&MP Connoisseurs Choice – UK Exclusive) 606 Bottles, 2025 Whisky Show £156
  • Benromach 40 year (1982 / 2022) Cask #3024413 59.9% (G&MP Private Collection) 2025 Whisky Show £1950

Our tasting notes are a bit light as this was a sniff, swish, and spit – my typical approach to remain standing at Whisky Shows! Where possible, I’ve added additional insights from the bottle…

Gordon & MacPhail calls Linkwood “An unsung hero in the world of single malts.” I would tend to agree that this Speyside distillery produces solid drams with less attention. At the show, we tried a UK exclusive…

Linkwood 15 year (2009 / 18 Nov 2024) Batch 24/036 1st Fill Sherry Hogshead Cask No 22605907 53.8% (G&MP Connoisseurs Choice, UK Exclusive) 329 Bottles

  • Nose – What a delight! It was bright and fruity on the nose – think red apples, ginger with a bit of orange zest, joined by cherries and cake
  • Palate – It was much more powerful than the aromas! Rich and full-flavoured, we found stewed apples, mocha, peppers, and something a bit nutty.
  • Finish – Dry, with a nice oak and spice tail. Yum!

What did the G&MP folks have to say? Their official tasting notes shared:

Fruit cake and marzipan aromas intertwine with cherry and strawberry liquorice. Stewed fruit combines with autumnal spice and milk chocolate. A full finish with forest fruits and toasted oak.

There is also a related expression available for worldwide distribution.

Next up was an offering from Balblair, with the folks at G&MP sharing:

As a single malt, Balblair heads into a sweet, buttery territory, working extremely well in a variety of casks – from refill hogsheads to more robust puncheons. Balblair proudly sits in ‘The MacPhail’s Collection’ range, it is considered as a top class Highland single malt whisky.

My tasting companion and I bonded over a Balblair 38 year, so what did we think of the 31-year-old?

Balblair 31 year (1993 / 29 Aug 2024) Batch 24/020, First Fill Sherry Puncheon Cask #1961 49.5% 2025 (G&MP Connoisseurs Choice) 

  • Nose – Outstanding! Orchard fruits, red berries, warming into dried fruits and dark chocolate
  • Palate – Fabulous! Wonderfully well-rounded, a touch of spice, very jammy, shifting into a delicious marmalade… I kept thinking of these marvellous
  • Finish – Strong, long, and mighty fine

Their official tasting notes from the bottle shared the following:

Roast coffee bean aromas lead to vanilla fudge and dried fruits. Sweet with light fruitcake, chocolate and Seville orange flavours balanced by charred oak. Full bodied, with a hint of pepper.

There is also a related expression available.

Next up was a less familiar Speyside. G&MP had this to say about the distillery:

Tamnavulin comes from the Gaelic meaning ‘mill on the hill’, it was built in 1966 as one of the newer distilleries during a period of several opening in the region. It was mothballed less than 30 years later in early 1995. The distillery has six stills and is completely computerised.

It is the only distillery positioned on the River Livet, from which the cooling waters are drawn. The distillery resumed production in 2007 and makes a whisky, which very much characterises the smooth, creamy qualities of the Speyside region.

The liquid we tried was distilled in 1991 – before it was mothballed.

Tamnavulan 31 year (1991 / 12 Dec 2022) Batch 23/002 Refill Sherry Puncheon Cask #9040502 51.79% (G&MP Connoisseurs Choice) 

  • Nose – Elegant, orchard fruits, caramel sweet, mmmm…. a dark chocolate fudge
  • Palate – Surprisingly dry! Tannins, good body, full and rich. And yes – blackcurrants, black pepper – exactly as we later read as tasting notes on the label!
  • Finish – Carried through

We were entranced – particularly the fabulous aromas caught our fancy! It may seem like a contradiction, however, it was “creamier” on the nose than the palate – for us at least.

What a treat to try this! I’m curious if the new avatar re-opened in 2007 will produce such liquid? Whilst I had purchased pre-COVID a bottle from their new stock, it was gifted to a dear whisky connoisseur in Mumbai to replenish depleted stocks in a time of shortage!

What did their official tasting notes on the bottle say?

Autumnal spice intertwine with aromas of apple and hazelnuts, vanilla fudge combines with blackcurrant flavours, balanced by black pepper. A full finish with lingering herbal influences.

Currently, there are no Tamnavulin expressions listed as available directly from G&MP, however, The Whisky Exchange still has a few bottles of this one!

We followed with an expression from The Glenrothes distillery… Here’s what G&MP share about this distillery:

This single malt has become something of a cult whisky in the past decade or so, famed for its Battenburg cake flavours, and has grown decade after decade between the 1960s and 2000s, seemingly swerving all the pitfalls of the industry. Clearly a blessed spirit indeed.

What did we think?

Glenrothes 16 year (2009 / 6 Jun 2025) Batch 25/016, 1st Fill Sherry Hogshead Cask #19602410 55.5% (G&MP Connoisseurs Choice) 

  • Nose – All the expected dark fruits, Christmas cake chock full of dried fruits, raisins, was in competition with an apple crumble with brown sugar and cinnamon
  • Palate – Hmm… not so balanced. Fruity, sweet, but somehow was a bit “much”

What was a playful interplay on the nose, just didn’t come together on the palate. Simply put, there was just too much going on and not enough harmony.

And the official tasting notes?

Fruitcake aromas combine with raspberry and cinnamon, stewed apples and raisin flavours complement demera sugar and a hint of aniseed. A full and long finish with forest fruits and spice.

Ahhh, the Orkney Islands and the venerable Highland Park! What do the G&MP folks have to say?

From its blustery home in Kirkwall, the distillery still utilises a small traditional floor malting set up to supplement its production and the peat is cut from Hobbister Moor, where due to the unforgiving weather conditions, no trees grow, meaning the peat has taken on a distinct floral character from the low lying plants and heather.

As a whisky, Highland Park is rich and honeyed, with a delicate-yet-dry smoky fragrance. A characterful and highly distinctive malt which is utterly adored by the global whisky community.

Highland Park 17 year (2007 / 3 June 2025) Batch 25/017, 1st Fill Sherry Butt Cask #5358 59.9% (G&MP Connoisseurs Choice – UK Exclusive)

  • Nose – Yum! Salty peanuts, mocha with a hint of citrus too
  • Palate – Peat and sweet and fun!
  • Finish – Light spice and everything nice!

Whilst perhaps not as complex as my memories of the old Highland Park 18 year, this was a lovely example of what a Highland Park whisky can be!

What did the folks at G&MP have to say?

Fragrant raisin aromas complement peanuts and tangerine peel. Apple and raspberry are followed by fudge and a hint of coffee bean. A medium length finish with lingering spice.

We closed with a special dram from Gordon & Macphail’s own distillery – Benromach – with whisky distilled before their purchase in 1993.

Benromach 40 year (1982 / 2022) Cask #3024413 59.9% (G&MP Private Collection) 

  • Nose – Rich, complex, plums, coffee, cloves, ginger, zest of an orange peel
  • Palate – Bold, heavy, tannins, cherry, and black pepper spice… this is one serious dram! Just let it roll around, enveloping with full flavours!
  • Finish – Spicy, smoke, and very, very long…

Wow! This was one powerful dram. We drained our wee sample to the last drop and enjoyed the remaining aromas in our glasses.

What a brilliant finish to a fabulous line-up from Gordon & MacPhail. Whilst I’m glad they still have a decade or more of stock, I still hope that in a few years, there is a renewed commitment to maturing and bottling the best the whisky industry has to offer!

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Scottish Regions – Whisky Broker’s Highland Park 57.9%

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It took being back in Bombay on a break to catch up, sharing tasting notes about the “bonus” dram from our January Scottish Regions explorations. Whilst I had anchored the evening with the standard “four” aka Campbeltown, Highland, Islay and Speyside, we were joined by a gent who had a perfect addition from the unofficial 5th whisky region – Island!

Island – Highland Park 14 Year (23 Oct 2003 / 1 Nov 2017) Hogshead No 739 57.9% (Whisky Broker). Bottle 54 of 237. ~GBP 60

  • Nose – Wet leaves and sea spray, there was no doubt this was a maritime style dram with a hint of peat. We found it quite vegetal – reminiscent of a rural setting with cow dung patties baking in the sun. There was also wet stone, mineral… and yet as it continued to open, new elements came to play. We then found heather, lavender, a potpourri with oregano, rosemary… It then shifted further into chargrilled lemon rind. What remarkably interesting and evolving aromas!
  • Palate – After some time, we went in…. A LOT is happening here! It is delicious, sweet, balanced peat, tannins, tobacco, even a minty leafy herbal quality.
  • Finish – Carries on in the same vein, with the tobacco joined by herbal influences.

What a dram! It was so good to be reminded why Highland Park was once such a favourite. And if this is any indication of what Whisky Broker bottles, I should keep an eye out for more!

What else did we try?

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Whisky Show 2024 – The Whisky Festival Bottles

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Before we closed our 1st day of the 2024 London Whisky Show, we simply had to check out The Whisky Exchange’s festival bottles. I’ve often discovered something worthy of bringing back to share with others – fellow enthusiasts who aren’t able to jump on a plane to London, Paris, Singapore, Nurnberg. This way I can take an element unique and specific to be experienced beyond the event itself – because the best souvenir is shared!

Lowland Distillery 11 year (2012 / Dec 2023) Refill Hogshead 3478 58.8% (The Whisky Exchange – The Seasons: Summer) ~ GBP 70

We began with the Seasons series – with Summer! All that was disclosed was that it was from a Lowland distillery… possibly part of the Diageo stable.

Delightful! It was creamy and fruity on the nose – think warm apricots and peaches, joined by a fresh minty element too. On the palate, it was tingly and tart, tropical and bright. This was an uncomplicated summery dram – a perfect way to begin our explorations!

Old Orkney 2003 20 year old 55.8% (Decadent Drinks for Whisky Show 2024) ~ GBP 250

We were then guided in a completely different direction – to Highland Park! With a label inspired by a 1900s advertisement for Old Orkney whisky – once used for single malts from Stromness distillery.

We were greeted by a gentle peat, which morphed into a strong maritime stamp of brine and sea breeze. Not at all shy after all! On the palate, it had a spice kick, nice and balanced, closing with a peaty finish. What fun!

Ben Nevis 10 year (2023) Sherry 60.2% (Dawn Davies Whisky Show 2024) ~ GBP 72

What next? We were directed to The Whisky Show bottlings dedicated to their team. I have to admit, I’m not a Ben Nevis fan. The nose started a bit shy, then revealed a fudgy fruity quality… the palate was an explosion “kaboom!” of great big Christmasy flavours, chewy with even the finish having a spice kick. It was described as a “dirty” Ben Nevis.

Ardmore 26 Year (1997) 50.3% (The Whisky Exchange – The Seasons: Summer) ~ GBP 200

We shifted back to the Summer series. The nose was enchanting – gentle with a hint of fruit. Delicate with a hint of peat and tannins from maturing in a wine barrel. The palate, soft and juicy fruits, honeydew melon, restrained and complex. The finish was subtle with tobacco leaves, a bit of vegetation, light spice, long and lingering. Really quite something!

Ledaig 17 year (2006) Sherry Butt 16 55.4% (The Whisky Exchange – The Seasons: Autumn) ~ GBP 240

And now finally, we progressed from summer to fall – clearly moving more to peat with Tobermoray’s peaty Ledaig. On the nose, it was briney, wet leaves, fruity with a hint of peat. And on the palate? It was pure pumpkin spice, and everything nice! The finish was long, gingery with a strong sherry close – I believe a PX?

Speyside (M) 18 year (2005) 1st Fill Oloroso 61.2% (Signatory for The Whisky Show) ~ GBP 235

We closed our 1st day on a strong sherry note with a Macallan. The nose was punchy with the clear stamp of sherry! Dark fruits and nuts. The palate was full-bodied and prickly with ginger spice. The finish was heavy with dates. There was nothing subtle about this dram!

Long after we left the venue, the memory of this powerhouse continued!

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Scotch Malt Whisky Society

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In whisky circles, the Scotch Malt Whisky Society (SMWS) stands out as one of those special groups spread around the world with local societies. For forty years, the Society has encouraged whisky aficionados to explore the world of whisky through SMWS releases with their inventive and humorous descriptions! 

Nowhere on the label is the distillery disclosed, however, their numerical codes are an “open secret” with fans knowing what each represents or… cheating by looking them up! 

During our Schottland Whisky Forum weekend getaway in October, there were several SMWS bottles brought to share. Over the course of two days, I splashed small samples of each into a nosing glass and glimpsed their character. 

95.64 (Auchriosk) “Sweet and Rummy, Good for the Tummy” 11 year (2 Aug 2006) 62.9% 213 Bottles Approx Eur 83

There is a danger in starting off with something spectacular… everything else that follows pales by comparison. That was exactly my experience with this Auchriosk. Matured for eight years in ex-Bourbon casks, followed by three years refill Trinidad rum, launched for SMWS France members. What was the result?

  • Nose – Very merry, rummy, nummy, starts with heavy dates, and raisins, then shifts into juicy fruits and mashed bananas, some cinnamon, a touch of coffee, and nuts joining the rum raisins
  • Palate – Needs time to open up, then becomes absolutely delicious, sweet rum raisins, then shifts into a sweet treat, delightful! 
  • Finish – Cinnamon candy

I absolutely loved this one! Take your time… as I sat in the autumn outdoors, was happy to just sniff my near-empty glass, lingering over this one…

However, my tasting companions were raving about another dram so I found myself wandering back into our main room to select my next dram.  

112.59 (Inchmurrin) “Kaffeepause in der Möbelfabrik” 13 year (27 Dec 2006) 63.2% 251 Bottles Approx. Eur 75.

From the name alone, you know this expression was released specifically for Germany! It translates into “Coffee break in the furniture factory” and is exactly the kind of dram you want to slow down and have a break. From Loch Lomond, it began its journey in ex-Bourbon Hogshead then was finished in Heavy Char new oak Hogshead. 

  • Nose – Instant coffee, then opens to a fresh rich mocha, as it further opened, took on a lovely perfume with fresh herbs and honey – lovely! Underneath, there was apple sauce and toffee… over time even a bit of hot chocolate with marshmallows!
  • Palate – Shy at first, sober, thick chocolate, wood, spice, syrupy sweet… weighty and balanced, great mouthfeel… like silk rolling around the palate, delicious
  • Finish – Yum! Mocha joined by lebkuchen with a distinctly ginger  
  • Water – The initial reaction was hmm…. it dampened the delicious aromas. However on the palate? A delicious coffee spice – like an indulgent frothy decadent coffee dessert

Again – a remarkably good dram. One that made you want to slow down and simply enjoy. So I did just that… kicked back and relaxed. 

68.20 (Blair Athol) “Ginger Beer in a Champagne Flute” 11 year (2 Aug 2006) 54.7% 305 Bottles 

Blair Athol tends to use sherry casks, however, in this case, the whisky was matured solely in refill ex-bourbon Hogshead. So what did we think?

  • Nose – Sour, stewed fruits – maybe apricots?
  • Palate – Also a bit odd – had expected a bit of sparkle and spice, instead it was a bit nondescript…. so what there ginger beer? Yes… with some dry cookies too. What about champagne? Nope.

To be honest, this one didn’t quite catch my fancy. Nothing wrong, but nothing that really stood out. You can tell just from my scant-tasting notes alone that it didn’t really leave much of an impression. So, I stopped at a few drops and moved on…

1.237 (Glenfarclas) “Suave & Plush” 7 year (26 Feb 2013) 60.7% 228 Bottles Was originally released for £55 (now out of stock)

So I decided to shift gears to where the SMWS journey all began – with Glenfarclas – hence its #1 status! In this case, the bottle details share that it began maturing in an ex-bourbon, then it was finished with a 1st fill ex-oloroso sherry hogshead.

  • Nose – Initially a bit muted, then opened to raisins or figs, a dash of green pepper
  • Palate – Some spice, plums, young yet flavourful
  • Finish – Long with a hint of coffee

 

4.286  (Highland Park) “Kirkwall Skink” 11 year (29 Oct 2009) 62.8% 258 bottles

What was unusual about this Highland Park is no ex-sherry cask – either for the main maturation or finish. Instead, it lived initially in an ex-bourbon barrel followed by finishing in a 1st Fill ex-bourbon. This led to some confusion in my tasting companion – who found none of the expected Highland Park elements… So what did I find?

  • Nose – Initially tinned peaches, some apple, missing the typical HP heather, yet still had a fresh meadow element, more than that was the maritime ocean spray chassed by a twist of citrus
  • Palate – Some power here – clear it is cask strength! Again – different than expected til we realized there were no sherry influences. Instead, it had some lovely mineral qualities, more maritime, with some sweetness joining some herbal elements too
  • Finish – Was that a puff of smoke at the close?
  • Water – initially adds a waxy character, and starts to reveal a lovely herbal honey, with something deeper – especially on the palate. The closest I could come to describe it was olives – a combination of the olive brine and umami elements.

Not such a bad way to wind things up. For me, the Auchriosk and Inchmurrin were the real highlights – very happy to have an opportunity to try them!

I’ve had a few SMWS experiences previously:

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Whisky Show 2023 – Show Bottles Loch Lomond, Clynelish, Orkney

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This year, I decided in advance to purchase a “festival pick” at London’s Whisky Show 2023. I set myself a maximum budget and even put together a shortlist. This is exactly why I made a “beeline” to the Whisky Show “Festival” Bottles early Sunday morning and zeroed into the Clynelish immediately. 

However, as always, I enjoy being guided through explorations. So when they recommended we start with the Loch Lomond, we were happy to oblige!

Loch Lomond 14 year Cask no. 22/709-1 55.6% (2023 Whisky Show Bottle)

What an intriguing bottle! It was initially quite shy and a bit funky on the nose, gradually easing into yogurt, it then burst open with dried fruits and cream, and generous dollops of dark honey. On the palate, it was dangerously drinkable and delicious. All those lovely fruity flavours coming together, well balanced and most enjoyable.

Whilst Loch Lomond (under many labels) has a huge range of styles, I personally prefer ones like this – un-peated, uncomplicated, and friendly (once you get to know each other a bit!). This one needs a wee bit of time in the glass, then absolutely rewards you with a treat!

What more do they say?

One of Scotland’s most versatile distilleries, Loch Lomond produces an astonishing range of different styles and flavour profiles. This cask of un-peated single malt showed such a perfect balance of fruity spirit character and oak influence that we knew we had to have it for Whisky Show.

  • Nose: Runny honey, golden syrup, wine gums, buttercream, orange flower water, sultanas, vanilla.
  • Palate: Thick-cut marmalade, apple juice, chewy flapjacks, digestive biscuits, fresh baguettes, rice pudding, more wine gums, and yellow fruit pastilles. There’s a leafy peppermint note that keeps the sweeter elements from getting out of balance.
  • Finish: Fruity and creamy with oak spices and a touch of pencil shavings.

From curious to most enjoyable, I then turned my attention to my potential festival pick…

Clynelish 12 year (2011/2023) 1st Fill Barrel #880297 56.4% (2023 Whisky Show Bottle) GBP 120 / EUR 142

I will admit it, just reading about this bottle put it in the front-runner position. I was not at all disappointed! It was full of gorgeous fruity aromas, chased by warm lemon, sponge cake, a hint of floral honey, and enough beeswax elements to make it interesting. On the palate it rewarded with more fruit – I definitely found the pineapple, elegant and well-rounded. There really is something distinctive about Clynelish – the more I explore, the more I want to explore further.  

What do the Whisky Show folks have to say?

A real whisky drinker’s whisky distillery, Clynelish has made single malt on Sutherland’s east coast for more than 200 years. Its characteristic waxy, fruity, mineral profile is quite unlike anything else being produced today. We’ve found these 2011 casks to be of excellent quality overall, but we thought this one was particularly good and a fitting addition to our Whisky Show lineup this year.

  • Nose: Gummy bears, nectarine, yellow plum, and lemon oil. There’s also a floral side with irises, blossoms and wildflower honey.
  • Palate: All the Clynelish hallmarks are present and correct: candlewax, beeswax, olive oil. Then more stone fruit and candied pineapple with seashells, chalky white wines and Yellow Chartreuse. The influence of that first-fill bourbon barrel grows over time with toffee, crème anglaise and honey granola.
  • Finish: Sweet anise, gentian, vanilla.

An excellent example of 2010s’ Clynelish from a particularly good first-fill barrel. I happily snapped it up for Eur 139 / GBP 120 and sent it home to India with my hubby for a future-future-future tasting session!

We were then steered towards the Orkney…

Orkney 22 year (2000/2023) Refill Hogshead #41 52.7% (2023 Whisky Show Bottle)

Obviously, this was Highland Park… and for 22 years, it greeted us with a fresh (though slightly shy) nose, light sea breeze, fresh leaves, and just the slightest hint of peat. On the palate, the peat was unmistakable – that lovely non-Islay peat that warms gently without overpowering the fruits and cinnamon sweet. The finish continued in the lightly sweet peat vein, lingering. Really rather nice!

Again, it is worth checking the further details about this Show Bottle here:

The first of our three bottlings for Whisky Show 2023 comes from a venerable distillery in the Orkney islands. We can’t say which one, but the keen-nosed will be able to make an educated guess. Full maturation in a refill hogshead means that the oak influence is nicely restrained, allowing the quality of the underlying lightly smoky spirit to really shine.

  • Nose: Heathery peat, beeswax furniture polish, linseed oil, white pepper and sackcloth. Brilliantly old-fashioned and probably a great example of whatever Orkney distillery this happens to be.
  • Palate: Nicely mineral at first, with oil lamps, polished brass, copper coins, peat kilns and brick dust. Then green apples, pears, lime juice, wood sorrel, brown butter, dandelion leaves and roasted green peppers.
  • Finish: That grassy, floral smokiness lingers along with a sense of earth and stones.

Our journey then continued with an amusing and educational exploration with Dave Worthington and fellow Canadian Sam Simmonds at That Boutique-y Whisky Co!

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Paris Whisky Live 2022 – VIP Gordon + Macphail’s Convalmore + Highland Park

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Gordon & Macphail’s Private Collection features rare, old and even closed distilleries, a “must catch” at any whisky festival and a very good reason to go “VIP” for at least one day at Paris Whisky Live.

Featured in 2022 were a closed distillery – Convalmore – and a familiar friend with Highland Park. I had to start with the Convalmore which was approx 40 years patiently maturing in refill American hogshead.

This was my first experience with Convalmore – which was “Victorian” Speyside distillery that spent most of its life in blends. “Mothballed” in 1985, this particular vintage dram came from some of its final years of operations.

Convalmore (1982/2 Mar 2022) Refill American Hogshead #155 55.5% (Gordon & Macphail) 104 bottles

  • Colour – Amber
  • Nose – Delightfully fruity – pears, apples… dripping in sweet honey, shifting into vanilla cream – delicious
  • Palate – Lovely on the palate, soft… continued the fruity element, a bit waxy
  • Finish – Light spice, sweet with a buttery texture

Beautiful! This was so special. Fruity, waxy, subtle, nuanced and supremely sophisticated. Such a lovely whisky… and such a treat to have a chance to try something so rare and lovely from a closed distillery.

The official Gordon & Macphail tasting notes are remarkably similar to my scribbles from a sniff & swish at Paris Whisky Live:

  • Nose – Rich vanilla pod gives way to fresh green apple and orange zest. Honeysuckle notes develop with quince and toasted walnut.
  • Taste – Sweet and smooth exotic fruit flavours accompany poached pear and floral notes. White chocolate comes to the fore alongside baked apple
  • Finish – A medium-bodied finish with guava and sweet honey.

I couldn’t find this exact bottle for sale, however, a related one from 1982 was listed on WhiskyBase for GBP 1,500, which gives you a feel for just how pricey a sip of whisky history can be.

Next up was another vintage dram – also pushing the high side of 30s from Orkney Island with Highland Park. I must admit that this distillery was an early favourite – my ‘gateway” dram to single malts back in the 1990s – particularly the 18 years old. Since then, they have gone all over the place with different approaches, some very “Viking” branding… which made it all the more refreshing to slip back in time to the “original” spirit of their spirits…

Highland Park 37 year (1984 / 31 Dec 2021) Refill American Hogshead #1816 46.3% (Gordon & Macphail) Bottles 116

  • Colour – Gold
  • Nose – Fruitier than expected, sweet lemon/lime-like mosambi, honey sweet and light, with a dash of salted caramel
  • Palate – Incredibly silky smooth, gorgeous and well balanced, with a hint of citrus fruit coming from behind, light peat gives this a lovely dimension
  • Finish – Gentle and subtle

What fun! This was a lovely dram… In some ways reminded me a bit of the much younger Chorlton 15 year Orkney.

And what about the official Gordon & Maphail tasting notes as a reference? Yup! Would certainly agree…

  • Nose – Fragrant lemon aromas intertwine with honeydew melon and sweet Demerara sugar. Red apple notes develop accompanied by grapefruit zest and walnut.
  • Taste – Citrus fruit flavours give way to guava and subtle cured meats. Dried mango comes to the fore alongside toasted almonds and spicy pepper.
  • Finish – Soft smoke lingers on the finish with green apple, poached pear and spice.

I was curious to see what this experience would set you back… and found a bottle currently available through Whic.de for EUR 1,790.

What an interesting pair… and there we have it!

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Birthday Chorlton – Orkney 22 year 53.4%

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The story behind this one was that I was having trouble purchasing this Highland Park when it became available. So my London-based friend also tried… In the end, we both were successful! Which proved to be a good thing as one bottle went almost immediately to India to be sampled on a special evening. Whilst its sibling remained in London…. to later also make most of its way to Bombay!

Orkney (Highland Park) 22 year 53.4%

From our London evening, October 2022:

  • Nose – Fabulous nose – big and full, mineral, a bit of ‘funky forest’, earthy which a fresh maritime sea breeze, then started to shift to sweet heavy fruit, then back to grass stalks, aromatic and herbal with woodruff, sage…. waxy and happy, a touch of sandalwood and tobacco leaf
  • Palate – So much going on, spice, peat, fruit, a “wake up” dram that became sweeter and sweeter
  • Finish – A huge finish, orange marmalade with cinnamon spice
  • Revisit – So incredibly fruity, a veritable fruit basket, especially orange and sweet spices, some leather on the palate, cornflakes drowned in milk, exceedingly tasty

From our Mumbai evenings in November 2022:

  • Nose – A bit acetone at first, a bit sharp, then shifts to sea breeze – coming and going like the ebb and flow of the tide, hay, vegetal then it began to open up revealing some fruity elements – particularly citrus,. The more time in the glass, the sweeter it became -condensed milk, not quite a toffee sweetness… more like a dulce de leche, 
  • Palate – Sechuan peppers and a bit astringent at first, then sweetened into warm sprite
  • Finish – Spicey, dry wood
  • Water – On the nose, it flattens the aromas… bringing back a bit of that light sea breeze, joined by sweet milk however it is rather nice how water opens up the palate – that vegetal element shifts into sweet roasted root vegetables, lightly caramelized then fruity… which continues on to the finish – nice!

Particularly with the Whisky Ladies, there was a real range of reactions to this one… It was also such a contrast to our previous drams…each bringing quite different characters. For the gents, I changed the tasting order bringing this into 3rd rather than last place and think that worked much better – we could more readily discern the different elements and enjoy it for what it is.

Here are a few more Cholton’s from La Nouvelle Vague series:

And those we managed to sample from the earlier L’Ancien Régime series:

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Chorlton Birthday Drams – Glen Elgin, Tormore, Orkney, Bunnahabhain

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This Chorlton quartet was the birthday gift that just kept giving! It began as a single bottle purchased as an extra special 60th birthday gift. Then the other Bombay Malt & Cigar gents offered to ‘chip in’, so I purchased another 2 bottles. The trio was then augmented with an additional bottle to become a remarkable quartet!

All four were from the La Nouvelle Vague series:

The quartet was originally opened in June 2022 in London during a special evening with Sukhinder Singh (Elixir, The Whisky Exchange) and two Bombay Malt & Cigar gents (naturally including the “birthday boy!). As I missed it, we rescheduled for October 2022, also in London, sharing with a former Bombay Whisky Lady and other friends.

However, our tastings with these bottles weren’t done! Two sets of 100ml samples were re-bottled and dispatched to Mumbai for two evenings:

  • Whisky Ladies on November 1 as a special joint birthday treat for myself and one other Whisky Lady (sharing the same birthday) who flew in from Hyderabad… the only challenge here was splitting 100ml between 8 ladies!
  • Bombay Malt & Cigar gents on Nov 6 to share with the others who were intended to be part of the original 60th birthday celebration that inspired the whole set! Which just so happened to also be my partner’s birthday (who joined us for dinner)

It was so interesting to see the commonalities and differences between the tasting sessions! Different settings, different personalities, and different whisky style preferences meant we could experience different dimensions. What an incredibly rewarding way to experience such lovely and varied whiskies!

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Chorlton’s Orkney 22 year (1999/2022) 53.4%

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These days trying to acquire one of the beautiful bottles from Chorlton‘s  La Nouvelle Vague series requires lightning speed! If you miss the email for even an hour you very well may be out of luck!

When I scored this bottle in Feb 2022, I suspected it would be many months, perhaps even years before I would find the right opportunity to open it! First was getting it from London to Mumbai – which happened in March 2022. Then I needed to join from Nurnberg to Mumbai – also happened by April 2022. And most importantly, finding the right occasion? And that’s when India’s Malt Maniac Krishna Nakula mentioned he would be in town, together with two founders of SMAC India. I also knew once opened, an additional tasting session could follow where this could be shared as a “bonus”! Including the very person who kindly let me use his London address and brought the bottle to India!

So what did we think?

Orkney 22 year (9 June 1999 – February  2022) bourbon hogshead 53.4% (311 bottles)

  • Nose – Subtle and mellow at first, salt spray from the seashore, lovely herbal notes, then started to reveal butterscotch and gingerbread, fruit strudel – perhaps apricot? Then pears and melons, then tart slightly sour stewed apples. Then sweet varnish.  A nice earthy element kept the desert qualities in check – sweet but not overly so!
  • Palate – Wonderful! Buttery brandy. Salted old-fashioned black licorice, a hint of tobacco. Such a fabulous mouthfeel – tempts you to just keep rolling it around, enjoying its marvelous viscosity, a marvelous mix – from herbal to lightly fruity to smoke and pepper – all beautifully balanced and creamy
  • Finish – Rewarding, dry, bitter cinnamon bark, more of that enchanting herbal element… only complaint is that it dissipates too quickly leaving only a faint impression
  • Water – Necessary? No however also lovely with! Makes it sweeter, black peppercorn pops out, cloves and still nice and buttery

Take your time with this one… the more time you give it, the more it gives you! I was so happy to revisit it a few days later in a leisurely long evening over excellent cheese, fresh bread, and conversation.

Simply put – what an utterly lovely dram. If you blind tasted it, I strongly suspect Highland Park would NOT be the obvious option.

What did David have to say in his email?

Also available is a new 22-year-old Orkney. H*ghl*nd P*rk produces a consistently excellent distillate, but I always think these late-1990s vintages have a special something about them.

So, the nose starts on soft notes of lemony wax, honey and orange, with a wee clean herbal backing (eucalyptus, spearmint, lime leaves) and then really opens up the longer it breathes. There’s something fruity and lightly medicinal happening (think cherry lozenges), banana Nesquik powder (my secret shame), sea air and a thin thread of bonfire smoke. Adding water is transformative: tangerine Altoids, spearmint chews, angelica, sea water and heather.

The palate is rich, resinous and honeyed in texture. I get malt extract, lemons & limes & salt, plus a peppery peatiness that almost has a gentle Talisker feel. I also find seafood with salty-buttered brown bread, herbal liqueur and cough syrup. The finish is really long, with dried herbs, sweet citrus, and lingering smoke. Water again opens things up in a herbal direction: crushed mint leaves, lemon tea, pine needles and salty orangey honey.

This bourbon hogshead produced 311 bottles at 53.4% for £135 plus tax and courier charges.

Here are more from La Nouvelle Vague series:

Here are the Chorltons we’ve sampled from the L’Ancien Régime series:

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