Monthly Archives: October 2023

Diageo’s Glenkinchie and Mortlach 2023 Special Releases

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There is a stage when you are at a Whisky Festival where you no longer have the capacity to consider exploring a full range. Instead, the approach is much more selective. It becomes a question of “If I were to try only one, which should it be?” Because even when you sniff, swish, and spit, there are limits.

What follows are whiskies that were all sampled later in the day at London’s The Whisky Show 2023. Where one was better than none, but everything was starting to muddle together after 30+ different tasting experiences. As I was with my favorite tasting companion – one becomes two – with different mini pours for him and myself.

After a bit of a change of pace, we made a beeline to the Diageo area in hopes of sampling the Clynelish. Alas, it wasn’t available there, so we instead were offered a rather nice Glenkinchie and interesting Mortlach.

Glenkinchie 27 year ‘The Floral Treasure’ 58.3% 

What did we think? 

  • Nose – Lovely floral elements, joined by light spice, a hint of leafy green, and some berries. It then shifted to become slightly more vegetal, a hint of sour joined the earlier sweet perfumes
  • Palate – Here the orchard elements come through more – think baked apples with vanilla cream, which then shifts to something a bit deeper with the oak pushing through
  • Finish – Quite dry
  • Water – Yes, please! Made it brighter, and lighter, and rounds out all the elements, a lovely citrus came forward  

There was a spring-like quality to this – both the freshness of new growth and the wet earthiness, old grass and leaves revealed by the melting of snow. From apple blossoms on the nose, we switch to a warm applesauce on the palate.

What more do we know? It was part of Diageo’s Special Releases 2023. Of course, Glenkinchie is from the Lowland region in Scotland and this expression was aged in a mix of refill American and European oak barrels and butts. Oh – and the price – it clocks in at a hefty €390. 

Mortlach ‘The Katana’s Edge’ (2023) 58%

  • Nose – What melon! Then saline, heavy, curious
  • Palate – Decidedly umami, again there was a “heavy” quality and spicy, reminiscent of an oolong tea, had some oomph! 
  • Finish – Started on the umami side then shifted to sweet
Also from the Diageo Special Releases 2023, this Speyside Scotch finished in Kanosuke Japanese whisky and Pinot Noir casks and retails for ~€290.  

I personally felt that Diageo really ‘upped their game” this London Whisky Show 2023, It was a case of “less is more” with carefully selected options. This time, it wasn’t a challenge at all to interact and learn more about what they are trying to achieve with their 2023 Special Releases.  

If you are curious about other tasting experiences with these distilleries, I’ve had only one brush with Glenkinchie  – their 12-year-old. Whereas with Mortlach, most of my explorations have been with independent bottlers with only two “OB” expressions!

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Whisky Show 2023 – Woven Whiskey Makers

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In our planning for our one day at London’s Whisky Show 2023, I was intrigued by the Woven Whisky Makers approach.

Reading about what they have to say, you may be too:

We are friends who believe that there’s more to blended whisky. A lot more. And while our home is a blending studio in Leith, our mission is global. We want to make this industry, this art, much more human. Much more experimental. Much less industrialised. Much more experiential. Much more, well, fun. But we know we can’t do it alone. Because we know this is bigger than any one of us. 

Simple, yet unconventional.

Our sourcing, blending, marrying and proofing processes combine to create something unique.  Something much, much greater than the sum of its parts.

It was a treat to explore a few of their blends. Clearly, they are enjoying the journey too! 

Woven Experience No 15 Shindig 45.7%

It was described as a fun, happy “party” whisky. Vibrant, fresh, and easy to enjoy. We concurred in our brief sniff & swish. 

Whilst I was veering towards their No 17 Synchronicity, we were guided instead to their Paradox blend.

We found it very matcha! There was a sweet peat, forest, and fir trees on the nose. For the palate, we found it quite grassy, with a nice earthy base, and a touch of peat, lingering for some time. If we had to pick a colour for this one – it would be green! We were informed that North British plays a strong role in this blend – interesting!

Next up, we went to their Homemade expression, Now my scribbles indicated it was  57.4%, however on their website it is listed as 46.4% and alas I missed taking a close-up picture of the bottle!

What I’m more inclined to believe is my note about BNJ. For those not familiar, this is a blend also from Leith, which is a bit of an industry insider dram. Our guide revealed there is some Linkwod, Teanich, and more North British to be found. And like its inspiration – BNJ – it aims to be an everyday dram, some sweetness and spice, making for something rather nice!

We closed with Experience #18 Awe at 51.4%. This was certainly a case of leaving the most interesting to the last! Our guide shared it is a blend of 1983 Invergordon and 2002 Glen Rothes – making for a perfect duet. And with just a dash of water? Fabulous!

An interesting introduction and curious if I will have a chance to come across these gents again!

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London’s Whisky Show 2023 – Single + Single

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In our planning for our one day at London’s Whisky Show 2023, I insisted on including Single & Single in our explorations. A newer entrant into the indie bottle scene, they have been around since 2000. After a bit of a quieter period, they are back with striking labels and getting their word out. 

On offer was their Alter Ego Range described as:

At Single & Single, we are renowned for our adventurous pursuit of uncompromising whiskies. We take pride in crafting spirits that not only delight your palate but also captivate your imagination. Our Alter Ego Collection, with its distinctive photographic character labels, is a testament to our commitment to engaging you on a deeper level.

We believe in making our whiskies memorable for you. That’s why we’ve chosen to tell our story through captivating characters. These characters serve as the key to unlocking a world of flavour and intrigue just for you.

We tried their full range of five, starting first with Glen Garioch…

Glen Garioch 10 year (2012)  Bourbon barrel, 1st Fill 52% 673 Bottles

This was one powerful dram – a burst of aromas on the nose and full flavours on the palate. Quite rewarding and impossible to ignore. Not quite why, but I jotted down “The Pogues” – somehow this dram reminded me of the band!

What do they have to say?

With this whisky, tradition is there to be toyed with. From the honey-sweet nose all the way through to a palate packed with cinnamon, fruit and barley, and on to its long herbal finish, this dram reinvents and refreshes. What you have here is an era-agnostic celebration of classic styles; an age-old approach that focuses firmly on the future. 

We were then guided to a pair of HIghlands to contrast and compare…

Highland 14 year (2008) Oloroso Sherry Barrel, 1st Fill 52% (yes – it is the one on the left!)

Fabulous! Rich, robust, full of fruits, quite juicy on the nose. Take a sip and be rewarded with big bold sherry flavours, round and full, tapering into a strong finish.

What they have to say:

A whisky that demands immediate respect, you’re bound to be captivated by this compelling dram. The nose leads with saltiness and soft sultanas before being joined by baking spices and dried fruit on the palate, then wafting off in a long, sweet finish. You might never discover exactly what this spirit is, but you’ll never forget its incredible allure. 

We then compared it with a different Highland – same vintage and also sherry!

Highland 14 year (2008) Sherry Butt 52% 748 Bottles (the above bottle on the right)

Delicious dried fruits on the nose, spicier and yet also had a lovely understated quality. The dried fruits follow through on the palate, also joined by sweet spices, and some marmalade, and then eased into a rather tasty finish.

I remember slightly preferring one of the other – I think it was the Olorosso however can’t be 100 sure as they were both good. 

What they have to say:

There’s something about this authentic, assured whisky. Quietly confident, it is by no means typical. With a complex flavour profile that shifts from hints of orange vanilla to cinnamon and spice, it might come off as a little eccentric. Maybe it is, but if you try to judge this dram by its cover, you’ll only be fooling yourself. 

Next up was a sassy young Linkwood.

Linkwood 7 year (2015) Château Larose Barrique, 1st Fill 52% 642 Bottles (Single + Single)

This one stood out for me. The aromas were old fragrant slightly floral candles, lemons, and simply delicious! Much like what I find with many Linkwoods – a delight on the nose and no push-over on the palate. Substantial, creamy, waxy, wonderful with some spice joining the nutty nougat… dessert in a glass. 

What they have to say:

Enticing and enigmatic, this whisky stares straight at you, unflinching. Fragrant, floral and grassy on the nose, it turns increasingly sweet on the palate with marzipan and almonds, before ending dry and citric. Upfront and beautiful, it’s got a glint in the eye that’s incredibly beguiling, if wholly unconventional.

Then we closed with a Tullibardine…

Tullibardine 8 year (2014) Château Margaux 52% 274 Bottles 

The aromas were full of citrus and berries. The palate is spicy, with the citrus shifting from lemon to orange, and more… I think I caught a bit of the wine element with some tannins and found it had a rather dry oaky finish. Pucker up and enjoy!

What do they have to say?

Dabbling in duality and layered with nuance, this whisky shifts perceptions from the start, with an explosion of lemon sherbet, red berries and marzipan on the nose. Take a sip and there’s custard, plum and orange zest before spice and hints of oak linger on the dry finish. A dram that defies labels, it’s charming and unapologetic, a contrast unto itself. 

What was our conclusion? As attractive as the labels were, the liquid reigns supreme – and in this case, it was a clear “thumbs up!” In terms of markets, I doubt I will see this in Germany anytime soon as they seem to be focusing attention primarily on the UK, France, South Africa, Taiwan, and South Korea in Asia.

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Glen Grant 5 year old (1975) – a remarkable “old” whisky with a “young” vintage

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The Glen Grant is a Speyside distillery that produces two ends of the spectrum: mass-market affordable and accessible expressions like The Major’s Reserve (recently sampled as a calibration dram) to exceptionally rare and exclusive releases such as the 70-year-old “Devotion” tribute to Queen Elisabeth II, with only seven bottles in the world!

Even more remarkable, their Master Distiller Dennis Malcolm, has worked 62 years in the Scotch whisky industry! He shares:

“Our younger [expressions] have a nice surprise. They are a voyage of discovery. But the older ones are more soft, gentle, and sophisticated. And I think that’s the same with people. As you get older, you get softer, more fragile, more delicate, I suppose. Spirits are the very same.”

I had the great fortune to try a couple on the very mature side – a 60 year and  64 year. Yet euqally have heard remarkable things about some of the “young” in vintage yet “old” in age expressions.

This is why I had my eye on a special Italian release Glen Grant 5-year-old from the 1970s at London’s The Whisky Show for my Dream Dram token! Alas, it turned out it was not available, so imagine my amazement and delight to discover a bottle at a special Schottland Forum weekend getaway – wow!

There was only a little remaining, so I took only the smallest of splashes so others could also experience something so rare! What did I find?

Glen Grant 5 year (1975) 40% (Italian release)

  • Colour – Pale straw
  • Nose – A fresh, clean aroma, a hint of lemons, elegant with light notes of heather and honey. Young? Of course! Yet has a lovely warm quality with vanilla and something a bit nutty and creamy too after the 1st sip
  • Palate – Oh wow! Very waxy, with some apples and herbal elements, something almost a touch “off”, and yet also smooth, reminded me a bit of cider
  • Finish – A hint bitter, quite short

The aromas were vintage yet fresh, really quite entrancing. I could have spent time just nosing and nosing! However, the palate wasn’t quite to the same caliber. Given it was a mere five years maturing in oak casks – from nearly 50 years ago – I think we can cut it some slack! I was tempted to pour another splash to explore further… however restrained myself and moved on to the next dram.

Naturally, for something so rare, you can only find it in auctions and specialty dealers. I have no idea how much it could be – however, spotted a 2014 auction for Eur 200. Given that was nearly 10 years ago and prices for rare whisky have sky-rocketed, I am even more grateful for the opportunity to experience it.

For such a giant in the whisky industry, I’ve only sampled a few Glen Grant over the years with:

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Scotch Malt Whisky Society

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In whisky circles, the Scotch Malt Whisky Society (SMWS) stands out as one of those special groups spread around the world with local societies. For forty years, the Society has encouraged whisky aficionados to explore the world of whisky through SMWS releases with their inventive and humorous descriptions! 

Nowhere on the label is the distillery disclosed, however, their numerical codes are an “open secret” with fans knowing what each represents or… cheating by looking them up! 

During our Schottland Whisky Forum weekend getaway in October, there were several SMWS bottles brought to share. Over the course of two days, I splashed small samples of each into a nosing glass and glimpsed their character. 

95.64 (Auchriosk) “Sweet and Rummy, Good for the Tummy” 11 year (2 Aug 2006) 62.9% 213 Bottles Approx Eur 83

There is a danger in starting off with something spectacular… everything else that follows pales by comparison. That was exactly my experience with this Auchriosk. Matured for eight years in ex-Bourbon casks, followed by three years refill Trinidad rum, launched for SMWS France members. What was the result?

  • Nose – Very merry, rummy, nummy, starts with heavy dates, and raisins, then shifts into juicy fruits and mashed bananas, some cinnamon, a touch of coffee, and nuts joining the rum raisins
  • Palate – Needs time to open up, then becomes absolutely delicious, sweet rum raisins, then shifts into a sweet treat, delightful! 
  • Finish – Cinnamon candy

I absolutely loved this one! Take your time… as I sat in the autumn outdoors, was happy to just sniff my near-empty glass, lingering over this one…

However, my tasting companions were raving about another dram so I found myself wandering back into our main room to select my next dram.  

112.59 (Inchmurrin) “Kaffeepause in der Möbelfabrik” 13 year (27 Dec 2006) 63.2% 251 Bottles Approx. Eur 75.

From the name alone, you know this expression was released specifically for Germany! It translates into “Coffee break in the furniture factory” and is exactly the kind of dram you want to slow down and have a break. From Loch Lomond, it began its journey in ex-Bourbon Hogshead then was finished in Heavy Char new oak Hogshead. 

  • Nose – Instant coffee, then opens to a fresh rich mocha, as it further opened, took on a lovely perfume with fresh herbs and honey – lovely! Underneath, there was apple sauce and toffee… over time even a bit of hot chocolate with marshmallows!
  • Palate – Shy at first, sober, thick chocolate, wood, spice, syrupy sweet… weighty and balanced, great mouthfeel… like silk rolling around the palate, delicious
  • Finish – Yum! Mocha joined by lebkuchen with a distinctly ginger  
  • Water – The initial reaction was hmm…. it dampened the delicious aromas. However on the palate? A delicious coffee spice – like an indulgent frothy decadent coffee dessert

Again – a remarkably good dram. One that made you want to slow down and simply enjoy. So I did just that… kicked back and relaxed. 

68.20 (Blair Athol) “Ginger Beer in a Champagne Flute” 11 year (2 Aug 2006) 54.7% 305 Bottles 

Blair Athol tends to use sherry casks, however, in this case, the whisky was matured solely in refill ex-bourbon Hogshead. So what did we think?

  • Nose – Sour, stewed fruits – maybe apricots?
  • Palate – Also a bit odd – had expected a bit of sparkle and spice, instead it was a bit nondescript…. so what there ginger beer? Yes… with some dry cookies too. What about champagne? Nope.

To be honest, this one didn’t quite catch my fancy. Nothing wrong, but nothing that really stood out. You can tell just from my scant-tasting notes alone that it didn’t really leave much of an impression. So, I stopped at a few drops and moved on…

1.237 (Glenfarclas) “Suave & Plush” 7 year (26 Feb 2013) 60.7% 228 Bottles Was originally released for £55 (now out of stock)

So I decided to shift gears to where the SMWS journey all began – with Glenfarclas – hence its #1 status! In this case, the bottle details share that it began maturing in an ex-bourbon, then it was finished with a 1st fill ex-oloroso sherry hogshead.

  • Nose – Initially a bit muted, then opened to raisins or figs, a dash of green pepper
  • Palate – Some spice, plums, young yet flavourful
  • Finish – Long with a hint of coffee

 

4.286  (Highland Park) “Kirkwall Skink” 11 year (29 Oct 2009) 62.8% 258 bottles

What was unusual about this Highland Park is no ex-sherry cask – either for the main maturation or finish. Instead, it lived initially in an ex-bourbon barrel followed by finishing in a 1st Fill ex-bourbon. This led to some confusion in my tasting companion – who found none of the expected Highland Park elements… So what did I find?

  • Nose – Initially tinned peaches, some apple, missing the typical HP heather, yet still had a fresh meadow element, more than that was the maritime ocean spray chassed by a twist of citrus
  • Palate – Some power here – clear it is cask strength! Again – different than expected til we realized there were no sherry influences. Instead, it had some lovely mineral qualities, more maritime, with some sweetness joining some herbal elements too
  • Finish – Was that a puff of smoke at the close?
  • Water – initially adds a waxy character, and starts to reveal a lovely herbal honey, with something deeper – especially on the palate. The closest I could come to describe it was olives – a combination of the olive brine and umami elements.

Not such a bad way to wind things up. For me, the Auchriosk and Inchmurrin were the real highlights – very happy to have an opportunity to try them!

I’ve had a few SMWS experiences previously:

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Whisky Show 2023 – Hunter Laing

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We had just been blown away by the Linkwood 31 year and BenRiach 31 year of the Macbeth series at London’s Whisky Show 2023. What could follow that?

We were about to head back upstairs but were distracted by Hunter Laing‘s rather interesting array… and I was so glad that we did! There we discovered one of the most memorable drams of our day! After three generations in the whisky business, there is no doubt these folks know their stuff. 

Auchriosk 11 year (2011 – 2023) 46% 360 Bottles (Hepburn’s Choice) Eur ~58

It was robust yet approachable on the nose with berries and brioche. There was a lovely fruity palate joined by dark red grapes. The finish was dry and the overall impression was of an early evening treat.

Dailuaine 13 year (2008 – 2022) 46% 816 bottles (Hepburn’s Choice) Eur ~61

We moved on to the Dailuaine which was sweet with loads of pineapple on the nose, juicy fruits on the palate – like a fruit pastille. And the finish was long and sweet. This was a joyful dram and most enjoyable.

We then moved on to The Old Malt Cask series – trying just one! 

The Glenrothes 16 year (2006) Refill butt 50% 750 bottles Eur ~173

We clearly had a “juicy fruits” theme going on – as this too had loads of fruits, however in this case more plump raisins than orchard fruits. We caught a few heavier notes too – perhaps some mocha? We then went in for a sip… to be rewarded by a powerful yet balanced dram. More of those raisins, some spice, and everything nice, followed by a long finish.

Our guide insisted we could not leave without trying one particular whisky from their The First Editions line – so named as their expressions are aged in a Single Cask. 

Cragganmore 26 year (1995 – 2022) Sherry Butt 54.7% 570 Bottles EUR 320

  • Nose – The initial whiff was of old wood, like an antique. Then we were rewarded with rich, full sherry, yet this was not just a powerhouse “sherry bomb”, there were layers of nuance, with treacle and a hint of mocha.
  • Palate – Marvelous! Phenomenal mouth feel, rich, and oily, with raisins and ginger. Absolutely gorgeous, mature, and complex
  • Finish – What a finish! It lingered long after sipping, nice dry oak

Wow! We had not expected such a wonder. A worthy finish to our Hunter Laing stop indeed!

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London’s Whisky Show 2023

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As we were there for only one day, we did a little planning to ensure we were clear on our “must” vs “should” vs “could” stalls for this year’s London’s Whisky Show 2023. It was tough to choose – over 1000s of drams from a wide range of distilleries, independent bottlers and more! 

We went on the last day – Sunday – arriving about 45 mins early, knowing the lines would be long. It was completely sold out, however, with the tight limit on tickets, it was busy but not overcrowded, with folks there to explore and enjoy.

We did not want to miss using our “Dream Dram” coupons like last year – so this was our 1st priority. Knowing that we were there on the last day meant we also had to be flexible – some of our ‘top picks’ might no longer be available. Or… as it turns out… were indeed for only 1 coupon, but only the one you buy, not what was included with the ticket.

So what did we manage to try? Dream drams:

I was also determined to pick up a Show Bottle – only if it was both somewhat affordable and worthy!

What about the stalls? On the main floor, we checked out:

And on the 1st Floor, we made it to the following:

Plus a small respite in the Ardray lounge with a rather refreshing cocktail. And a pitstop at the Mainstage to catch some of the “Life of a Brand Ambassador” panel.

True – we skipped many worthy stalls! However, much like our approach to tasting, we preferred to spend more time listening and learning than speed-dating through everything. That said, we nonetheless managed to taste a prodigious range – some 50+ in total in just one day! Naturally, the majority of whisky samples were with a sniff, swish, and spit approach! Or with our favourite new tasting technique – just a few drops on the palate to gauge the flavours – so little that it evaporates without anything to swallow!

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Dream Drams in Dramatic Fashion – Macbeth’s Linkwood 31 year + BenRiach 31 year

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Our quest for “Dream Drams” at London’s Whisky Show 2023 included our target to taste a dram or two from Elixir’s new Macbeth series. With Five Acts, to be released annually until 2027, this is an incredibly ambitious project.

We are honoured to present the first nine bottlings in an ongoing series inspired by William Shakespeare’s The Tragedy of Macbeth. This landmark release is the culmination of a multi-year collaboration between Lexi Burgess, whisky writer Dave Broom and independent bottler Elixir Distillers.

Those who know me well would be aware my partner is an actor – with the Stage his first love. So anything that pays serious attention to the world of theatre – and the bard William Shakespeare no less – will get my attention. So when I saw the remarkable range featured, we simply had to try! Sukhinder Singh later shared how proud he is of this collaboration and collection – with very good reason!

No surprise, all of these whiskies were “Dream Drams” so we had the tough choice of picking what to try! As several were (deservedly) multi-token, our selection narrowed to just two which were for only one token. Before I share which we selected, here is a bit of an overview of the 2023 expressions.

From Macbeth Act One, there were… 

  • The Leads: Glen Grant 56 year “Old King Duncan” 48.2% for GBP 10,000
  • The Ghosts: Cambus 31-year Single Grain “First Ghost” 43.2% (Speyside) GBP 301
  • The Witches: Ardbeg 19 year “First Witch” 51.7% (Islay) GBP 550 
  • The Murderers: Ledaig 18 year “First Murderer” 50.5% (Island) GBP 220 

The Thanes:

  • Benriach 31 year “Menteith” 53.1% (Speyside) GBP 750 
  • Glen Garioch 31 year “Angus” 54.6% (Highland) GBP 750 
  • Linkwood 31 year “Lady Macduff” 48.2% (Speyside) GBP 750 

The Household:

We selected a pair of Thanes – wow!

The first of 12 noble thanes in the series are Angus and Menteith, who march to confront Macbeth in the play’s final act: portrayed respectively by a rich, complex Glen Garioch and a superbly fruity Benriach. Then we have the tragically fated Lady Macduff, who necessitated a particularly special whisky. ‘Linkwood is an all-time favourite distillery and it was a thrill to find a 31-year-old expression distilled in 1991 that worked so perfectly,’ Oliver explains. ‘Although I would probably have had to rewrite Macbeth if there wasn’t a place for this amazing whisky.’

What a wonderful way to explore some fine drams in such a dramatic fashion!

I selected the Linkwood – at a venerable 31 years of age – this was no lightweight! What did I think?

Linkwood 31 year “Lady Macduff” (1991 – 2023) 48.2% 

  • Nose – A beautiful light spice, a hint of heather, joyful and floral, joined by orchard fruits – from pear to white peach… as it opens more in the glass, it reveals deeper and more mature elements, elegant
  • Palate – Simply spectacular! Light and dark combine, concentrated fruits and wood, resinous with some spice, truly exceptional
  • Finish – Long lasting, dry with a citrus twist and light spice

What an incredible whisky! Truly something very special, worthy of attention. I hope there will be another opportunity to sit down and properly savor.

What more do we know? The bottle notes share a quote from Macbeth. 

Casting this role in Livingstone’s Macbeth series required whisky maker Elixir Distillers to find a single malt of rare elegance and beauty. This vatting of four ex-bourbon barrels from Linkwood distillery proves the perfect embodiment of the ill-fated Lady Macduff. The nose shows all the flowers, citrus and white fruit characteristic of Linkwood, while the palate harbours hidden depths suggestive of its inspiration’s strength and resolve. An exceptionally fine Speyside malt.

I would be inclined to agree.

My tasting companion chose the BenRiach – a bold and brilliant choice indeed!

BenRiach 31 year “Menteith” (1992 – 2023) 53.1% (Speyside) GBP 750 

  • Nose – Robust and seductive, there were berries, yet also a sweet floral topping in addition to the dark fruits, powerful yet balanced
  • Palate – Definitely mature, polished wood, nutty, toffee, some earthy elements
  • Finish – Long and strong

Oh, how I wish we had more than a mere “swish!” of this one! It was a tempting treat, teasing us with its rich and potent character.

What more do we know? Here is how it is described:

‘Revenges burn in them, for their dear causes would, to the bleeding and the grim alarm, excite the mortified man.’ The speaker of these immortal words is Menteith, a nobleman who marches to oppose Macbeth in the play’s final act. To portray this herald of battle, Elixir Distillers head blender Oliver Chilton selected bourbon barrels from Benriach distillery in the Scottish Highlands. At 31-years-old this is a deep, earthy dram that balances wild notes of hedgerow and forest floor with the nuttiness and rich vanilla characteristic of good-quality American oak.

What a thrilling and theatrical start! I just wish we could have explored more than just two! 

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Introducing Lowland’s Lochlea

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Once upon a time, the Scottish Lowlands were replete with many whisky distilleries which then dwindled to nearly none – including the loss of the remarkable Rosebank. Before 2000, there were only two active distilleries – Auchentoshan and Glenkinchie. However step by step, distillery by distillery, there has been an awakening – from the revival of older discontinued distilleries like Blandanoch and Little Mill, joined by Kingsbarns, Annandale, Alisa Bay (from Girvain), and more recently, the entry of Lindores Abbey.


The benefit of being at a whisky show is an opportunity to check out new players. This was certainly possible at London’s Whisky Show 2023, providing the perfect opportunity to explore a new entry from the Scottish Lowlands. Lochlea is a family-run, growing their own barley and experimenting with different casks and expressions. We began with their core expression, then explored their season’s quartet, and closed with their cask strength. 



Lochlea “Our Barley” Single Malt 46%


Their core range is from barley from their Lochlea Farm – hence the name “Our Barley”. It is a trip cask with STR hogsheads, 1st fill Bourbon, and Oloroso Sherry.


On the nose, we were greeted with a delicious sweetness, apples, and pears joined by red berries, something fresh like a meadow, and yoghurt. On the palate, it was equally sweet, yet with a few other elements thrown in, lightly nutty. Overall we found it young, bright and balanced, an easy-drinking and enjoyable dram. 



We then moved on to their limited edition seasonal range with:



  • Lochlea “Sowing Edition” 2nd Crop (2023) 46%

  • Lochlea “Harvest Edition” 2nd Crop (2023) 46%

  • Lochlea “Fallow Edition” 1st Crop (2023) 46%

  • Lochlea “Ploughing Edition” 1st Crop (2023) 46%


Starting with the “Sowing Edition” with 1st Fill ex-Bourbon Barrels, it was fresh and spring-like, with apples and pears on the nose, and equally light on the palate. Nothing complicated or challenging, just bright and fun. The green label was chosen to reflect the green of spring.


We then explored the “Harvest Edition”, which was a combination of Port, STR barriques, and ex-bourbon barrels. Toasted malt and raspberries, then strawberry jam, like an Eton mess with a hint of spice. The reddish label harkens to the late summer sunset after harvest.


After that, we shifted gears to the “Fallow Edition” with 1st Fill Olorosso butts. Now this was more our style – big, bold sherry aromas yet also nicely balanced – lots of dark red berries, dried fruits, malty, and baked goods. A rich purple label reflects the shift to fall with the colourful falling leaves. 


The seasonal series closed with winter and peat with the “Ploughing Edition” using ex-Islay (Laphroaig) Barrels combined with peated quarter casks. There was a freshness to even this dram. On the nose, it was just a puff of peat smoke layering on top of orchard fruits. On the palate, the peat was significantly more pronounced, joining stewed apples and nuts. As for the label this time? The colour is an icy blue label for the frosty cold of winter.



We finished with the Lochlea Single Malt Cask Strength Batch 1 (2023) 60.1%


This was one that caught our attention. At Cask Strength, you could really see the influence of the casks – 1st fill bourbon with Oloroso. It was big with dark fruits, coffee and nutty. Yum.


As we discussed the range and approach – at that young, experimental stage – testing the waters to see what works. After sampling them all, we tended to prefer the core expression, the “Harvest Edition” and Cask Strength. All were fleeting impressions however an interesting start…


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That Boutique-y Whisky Co – Oz range

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After exploring their new “core” range, next up in our That Boutique-y Whisky Co explorations at London’s 2023 Whisky Show, was a trip down under!

This was their 2nd collection, released at a time when there are a remarkable 318 Australian distilleries in operation – producing a range of spirits from whisky to gin, vodka, and rum. In their “Return to Oz” line-up, we managed to try:

  • The Gospel 3 year Rye Batch 1 58.6% 434 Bottles GBP 75
  • Launceston 5 year Single Malt Batch 1 62.5% 187 Bottles GBP 150
  • Limeburners 5 year Single Malt Batch 1 51.5% 434 Bottles GBP 145
  • Tria Prima 2 year Single Malt Spirit Batch 1 52.2% 232 Bottles GBP 140
  • Chief’s Son 5 year Single Malt Batch 1 52.1% 462 Bottles GBP 140
  • Fleurieu 3 year Batch 2 Single Malt 65% 428 Bottles GBP 145

Given this was a festival setting, we sniffed, swished, and spit our way through the collection, so my impressions are quite limited. Though it was good fun to have a wee saunter around these Australian drams… 

So… we began with one that Dave openly admitted is one of his festival drams (yes – that’s what’s in the glass in the pic)! 

The Gospel 3 year Rye Batch 1 58.6% 

The Gospel distillery from Melbourne produces a range of ryes – in this case, matured in an Australian red wine cask finish. We understand they use a mash bill of 51% Australian unmalted rye, and 49% malted barley, from the Murray Mallee region of South Australia.

What did we think? No question this was a rye and yet with a twist! Lots of juicy fruits, plum, red grape peel, with some spice and sweetness. As for the palate, more rye with dark fruits and some ground white pepper and sweet spices.

Launceston 5 year Single Malt Batch 1 62.5%

Based in Tasmanian, Launceston distillery is located in an airport Hangar which was built in 1932. Their focus is on local ingredients and production with local people. They produce a range from unpeated ex-bourbon to Tawny port finish, to Apera (Australian sherry), to rum, including some peat expressions too. As for this particular bottle? It was matured in an ex-Bourbon barrel.

Dave described it as the closest to a Scottish style. On the nose, it was a delicious dessert, generous and creamy with sweet spices. On the palate, it was beautiful – marvelously sweet, spicy, and robust – full and flavourful.

Limeburners 5 year Single Malt Batch 1 51.5%

Next up in our Oz journey was a shift to Western Australia with Limeburners Distillery. They share how their spirit is matured in second-fill American oak bourbon barrels, and then some expressions are further finished in Australian fortified wine barrels. They also have peated whiskies using locally sourced peat from the Valley of the Giants in nearby Walpole. In the same region, the parent company Great Southern Distilling has three distilleries – making gin, malt, grain, and rye whisky. We tried their single malt, matured in an ex-Pedro Ximenez Apera cask.

This one was very memorable. Call it the power of suggestion or something else, however, we began with key lime tart, then an exuberant red berry and raisins. The 1st sip was a powerhouse – rich, dark, spicy and bursting with flavours, including a bit of black forest cake! We kept the glass without rinsing for some time – what a delightful perfume sweetly floral with lime cordial! 

Tria Prima 2 year Single Malt Spirit Batch 1 52.2%

We then moved on to something completely different! Just like bourbon only requires only two years to be called whisky, so too does Australia consider two years sufficient to be known as whisky. Which is exactly how long this “spirit” from Tria Prima Distillery matured.

Turns out there is quite the TBWC connection. As the TBWC folks tell, this distillery was founded in 2017 by a fan – Paul Shand, and his wife Trang, with funds from Paul’s whisky collection – including TBWC bottles. So what did Paul do with his investment? In the case of this TBWC bottle, it was matured in an ex-Grant Burge (red wine) and 1st fill Tawny cask.

And what was the result? Something rather fun – fruiting, plummy, with a quite strong wine influence. Even on the palate, the Tawny port comes through loud and clear.

Chief’s Son 5 year Single Malt Batch 1 52.1%

What next? Chief’s Son was started near Melburn by spouses Stuart and Naomi McIntosh in 2016 after a trip to Scotland. Their approach is hand-made and small scale – as in an annual capacity of 5000 liters small! As for the expression bottled by TBWC, it was matured in an ex-Apera cask.

What did we find? Lots of big fruits and sherry influence, with some light peat. 

Fleurieu 3 year Batch 2 Single Malt 65%

Last in our tasting was Fleurieu Distillery from outside of Adelaide. Another family-owned distillery, Gareth & Angela Andrews were earlier brewers before turning their attention to whisky. Dave shared how their casks are named after family members rather than numbered.

It greeted us with a big bold peat on the nose – apparently, this was the distillery folks were inspired by a Caol Ila style peat. It was joined by a sea breeze and full flavours on the palate.

There was another expression on offer – Corowa 4 year Single Malt Batch 1 48.5% – however we found ourselves pausing and then passed.

What followed? After many explorations of other stalls, we simply had to return to TBWC for their “At The Movies” expressions!

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