Category Archives: Speyside

Cardhu 12 year 40% – Bottle battle of old + new

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Next in our Scottish regions tour was a whisky from Speyside… a region that takes its name from the river Spey. While technically also in the Highland region, with a cluster of over 100 distilleries, it is now considered an official region.

In terms of single malts, over 60% of Scotland’s single malt production comes from the Speyside region. Some better known distilleries include Aberlour, Balvenie, Cardhu, Cragganmore, Dalwhinnie, Glenfarclas, Glenglassaugh, Glenfiddich, Speyburn, The Macallan, The Glenlivet, and The Glenrothes.

Classic Speyside whiskies tend to be lighter, honeyed and easy to drink – think Glenlivet, Glenfiddich. Yet equally, there is another side to Speyside whiskies that  favour maturing in Sherry casks, producing robust rich berry bombs – think Aberlour, The Glenrothes, The Macallan.

And Cardhu? Here’s what our Whisky Ladies found…

Cardhu 12

Cardhu 12 year 40%

  • Nose – Sweet syrupy, almost cloyingly sweet, some fruit like peaches, apricots and nectarines, a little red or white peppercorns, then cooked pineapple and a dash of nutmeg…
  • Palate – Sweet, slightly sour, maybe some maraschino cherry, hint of chocolate but frankly, flat… a kind of watery unsatisfying whisky, lacking in oomph and depth.
  • Finish – Almost vegetal with some orange and pepper

In short, it just wasn’t what most Cardhu fans remembered. We began to admit we were practically forcing ourselves to find different elements and once one voiced a concern it was simply ‘flat’ others – including the owner of the bottle – were relieved they were not alone in being disappointed.

Dawning realization that as we had opted for an open bottle, we were witnessing the way oxidation had taken its toll.

It simply wasn’t working for us.

Now… we just so happened to have an unopened bottle of Cardhu 12 year with us. I mean doesn’t everyone have a spare whisky bottle rattling around?

Should we? Shouldn’t we?

The temptation to compare the new bottle warred with the risk that the bottle’s owner would have their Cardhu ruined by sitting too long oxidating and falling prey to the tragedy of the bottle we just sampled…

Ah heck! The new bottle was cracked open and two glasses made their rounds of the room – the previously opened Cardhu vs the newly opened Cardhu.

What a difference!!

In the newly opened bottle we found a robust whisky, some slightly salty briney woodsy elements completely absent in the previously opened one. It was far more intense on the nose, much more fulsome with sweet spices, nutty with fruits. On the palate the instant reaction was “Yum!” – a jolt of deliciousness that then mellowed into sweet citrus rinds with cinnamon.

As we continued to compare the two, there was a sense of pity for the poor previously opened Cardhu bottle. It simply did not pass the ‘test’ and had gone from perky to floppy with no way to revive its limpness. The only consolation was the nose wasn’t completely gone and if someone doesn’t mind a mild sweet innocuous dram, it would still suffice. If you didn’t know what a ‘real’ Cardhu tastes like!

Here’s what the folks over at Cardhu have to say:

  • Nose – At full strength, heady, nose prickle, pear drops and tightly integrated heather, resin and sweet honey-nut notes. Enticing. Intriguing. With a little water, still harmonious but less pronounced, allowing some malt cereal, soft, spicy wood, moorland and faint traces of wood-smoke to appear.
  • Palate – Soft, pleasing and medium bodied. Well balanced, smooth mouthfeel; short punch, sweet and fresh, then a pronounced drying effect. Moorish. Enjoyable at any time, with little or no water.
  • Finish – Quite short. Some lingering sweet smoke in the attractive, drying aftertaste.
  • Overall – Attractive, subtle complexity; elegant and worth knowing. Spirity nose with sweet apple blossom and heathery aromas, well balanced palate with good viscosity, warming with a drying finish.

Overall we concluded the previously opened bottle was simply NOT the same calibre of whisky and had just lost too much… prompting horrified thoughts of other precious open bottles.

A debate ensued on whether there is universally such a dramatic impact on ALL bottles or just some. Whether peatier, cask strength or sherry bombs fare better or even that is not something one can depend on. How decanting is used to help accelerate oxidation for whisky where this actually brings out a more optimal character…

Morale of the story? Enjoy your dram while you can! And plans for an upcoming “Dram Dregs” session was born to help ‘rescue’ opened bottles before they slip too far past their prime!

The Whisky Ladies of Mumbai’s Scottish Regional Tour continues…

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Whisky Ladies explore Scottish regions

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The whisky map of Scotland tends to be divided into ‘regions’.

Traditionally there were four regions: Highlands, Lowlands, Islay and Campbeltown. The Scotch Whisky Association (SWA) then added a 5th region of Speyside – given its prodigious production this seems more than merited!

You may also often hear of an ‘Islands’ sub-region encompassing island distilleries excluding Islay…. Whereas the SWA considers these to be part of the Highlands.

Confused yet?

Glenkinchie, Clynelish, Jura, Cardhu, Ardbeg

When our Whisky Ladies decided to go on a Scottish whisky regional tour, we had to skip Campbeltown as weren’t able to source whiskies from Glen Scotia, Glengyle, and Springbank, however we did our able best to appropriately cover the other regions… including that sneaky little not quite sure if it could be considered a region… Islands!

Whisky Ladies Regional Tour sampled:

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Tomintoul Trilogy – 10, 16 + 27 year

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Tomintoul describe their whisky as “the gentle dram.” I first tried a fleeting sample years ago and found the description exceedingly apt – it indeed left an impression of a rather gentle, soft whisky with little else.

So when offered an opportunity to share a miniature trilogy of the Tomintoul 10, 16 and 27 years? I naturally welcomed the chance to bring a fresh perspective and expand on my earlier brief encounter…

Tomintoul Trilogy

Tomintoul is from the Speyside region and located near the Tomintoul village in in Ballindalloch. It opened in 1964 and primarily use ex-bourbon American white oak casks for maturing without peat for most whiskies in their range.

What did we find?

Tomintoul 10Tomintoul 10 year 40%

  • Nose – New wood, sweet, pears and apples, hint of spice peaking behind, slight phenyl, camomile, dry hay, not strong cereals but certainly there with lightly toasted seeds.. after sipping and leaving to air, found slight banana toffee and curds, then vanilla
  • Palate – Slightly sweet hay, barley, with a sprinkling of sugar on cereal
  • Finish – Short, mild burn with little else…

Overall it is very gentle, pleasant however not terribly memorable.

What do the folks at Tomintoul have to say?

  • Nose – Hints of citrus, with honey tones and a whiff of mountain heather
  • Palate – Round, creamy sweetness balanced by gentle oaky spice
  • Finish – A surge of sweetness swiftly pursued by tingling spice

Tomintoul 16 year 40%
Tomintoul 16

  • Nose – When first opened, found freshly planed wood shavings, a meadow of fresh grass and heather, honey, flowers, sunshine, supple leather gloves, sweet…
  • Palate – Watered down tea, soooooo soft… took a while to realize still sipping alcohol
  • Finish – Errmm…. there really wasn’t

Huge caveat: Though still sealed, the miniature was missing a chunk of whisky so clearly something went wrong… the peculiarly flat and watered down quality were likely linked to this odd occurrence. Hence would not trust our tasting notes and give the benefit of the doubt there is more to this whisky than our experience…

What do the folks at Tomintoul have to say?

  • Nose – Soft fruits with hints of hazelnut and vanilla
  • Palate – Full flavour, nutty with spicy overtones
  • Finish – Creamy and velvety at first with a spicy finish

Tomintoul 27 year 40%Tomintoul 27

  • Nose – Initially a light burst of phenyl, resin, iodine then it settled down into a light sweetness with subtle figs, a hint of herbs, sweet basil and spearmint, then a sharper undertone of bitter tumeric… after sipping and left alone for some time discerned vanilla, caramel custard, that doughy yeasty quality of a sticky bun or apple pie crust
  • Palate – Very dry, some spice yet also sweet, overall quite restrained with some cereal, hay, quite woody dry, interestingly would shift between smooth and sweet to woody dry then back again
  • Finish – Finally we have a finish! Lingering sweetness

Overall the clear front-runner of the three.

Apparently the folks over at Tomintoul have discontinued their 27 year so alas no tasting notes for this one.

After lightly tippling through this trio, would I seek out more Tomintoul to explore further? Honestly while I’m glad to have tried, this simply isn’t the whisky style for me.

While I’ve gained over the years an increasing appreciation for lighter more nuanced whiskies, I will admit to being averse to anything too insipid. Perhaps my palate is not sufficiently finely tuned and simply craves more obvious character and complexity.

However Tomintoul could be ‘just right’ for someone who prefers a light, soft and yes…. gentle dram. Eminently pleasant, no nasty negative notes, no surprises just sweet cereals with slight variation between the vintages…

I couldn’t help but equate each whisky with a season:

  • For the 10 year – Think a bright spring afternoon.
  • For the 16 year – Think warm breeze in a summer meadow…
  • And the 27 year – Think strolling in the woods with the first crisp chill of autumn.

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Unchartered Territory – Inchgower 13 year 46%

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Next upon our evening of ‘Unchartered Territory‘, our host further eased up slightly from both peat and strength to introduce a new distillery – Inchgower.

The folks over at Diageo share that Inchgower was:

Moved and renamed, rescued and preserved, Inchgower became more than just a distillery for its founders and his loyal workers. It was an idea – a reaction to increasing land prices, and a commitment to Single Malt Scotch Whisky – and one of the only distilleries to inspire a poem.

As usual, we sampled blind then revealed the whisky…

Inchgower 13 yearInchgower 13 year 46% (Gordon & MacPhail)

  • Nose – Think canvas and paint, smoky perfume, chemistry lab, Parle biscuit, plastic
  • Palate – Soft and smooth, light spice, mellow, very nice, very likable with a good heart, sweet spices, something challenging to define but quite lovely
  • Finish – Short finish but engaging
  • Water – Not needed

What a treat! It was unfamiliar yet friendly. One of those whiskies that has enough going on to be interesting yet still be quite amiable.

And the reveal? A whisky none of us had sampled before and, no surprise, another excellent offering from Gordon & MacPhail. Matured in sherry hogshead, the bottle notes share describe it as:

The whisky has delicate Sherry influence with fresh pineapple and peach aromas. The palate is mouth warming with ripe banana and orange flavours. The finish is creamy with a milk chocolate edge.

For our host, it was unchartered territory to reverse the standard adage of lower strength to higher strength whisky… or begin with a whisky with lower peat levels then build up.

His logic was that he anticipated the Inchgower to be quite unique and wanted to leave the best for last. This was definitely a case of having the showstopper at the end!

So what was our conclusion by the end of the evening?

  • #1 most interesting
  • #3 most drinkable
  • #2 left behind

What were the whiskies we sampled in our ‘Unchartered Territory‘ evening?

  1. Island – Talisker 57′ North NAS 57%
  2. Islay – Laphroaig PX Cask NAS 48%
  3. Speyside – Inchgower 13 year 46% (G&MP)

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Unchartered Territory – Talisker 57′ North, Laphroaig PX, Inchgower 13 year

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As the mercury rises in Mumbai and we impatiently wait for monsoon to make its appearance, our merry malt gang made its way over to a members home for an evening of whisky sampling.

The ‘non-theme’ of the evening proved to be ‘Unchartered Territory’. Each of the whiskies our host had never sampled. He also tried a reverse approach of starting with the strongest in alcohol strength progressing to the least powerful. Furthermore everything we tried for dinner were all new experiments. As usual, all tastings were blind before the dramatic reveal!

May's trio - Talisker, Laphroaig, Inchgower

May’s trio – Talisker, Laphroaig, Inchgower

What whiskies did we sample?

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Signatory session take two with cigars!

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Quick before oxidation did too much damage, I wanted to share with the BMC lads a sampling from my earlier Signatory session.

However as whisky gremlins (aka friends and I) got into the Edradour and the Bunnahabhain too, it was clear augmentation would be needed to have sufficient for my sipping companions as we puffed on our cigars, post initial tasting. With this group, tasting is not the end, merely the selection process to settle down to savour a further dram or two with a cigar, some nibbles and convivial conversation.

2016-02-19 Oak League1

So what did I do? First began with what our merry malt men had to say about the whiskies…

We kicked off with the Speyside – Glenburgie 18 year (13 June 1995 / 20 Feb 2014) Cask No 6451, 391 bottles 46%.

  • Nose – Flowers, perfume, summer meadow
  • Palate – Surprisingly robust
  • Finish – Spice
  • Water – Adds ‘wood’ brought out vanilla and moss
  • Overall – Light bright and sprightly

Then followed up with the Islay – Bunnahabhain 26 years (6 June 1988 / 7 Aug 2014) Cask No 1874, 175 bottles 48.6%.

  • Nose – Varnish, lots of esters, pineapple, a flick of mint?
  • Palate – Smooth, a bit oily, tart granny apples…
  • Finish – Sits… very dry, black pepper
  • Water – Spicier, less acidic, brings out the peppers and even a medicinal quality on the nose. Then was that gasoline??
  • Overall – One commented the whisky made his lips numb! Certainly not a favourite (and yet the bottle was empty by the end of the evening… Oh the sacrifices these gentlemen will make!)

Closing our Signatory trio in the Highland‘s with the Edradour 10 year (2 Nov 2004/26 Mar 2015) Cask No 406, Bottle 440 46%

  • Nose – Very chocolaty, vanilla, prunes, fig newton, varnish, rum raisin
  • Palate – Very smooth, little pepper, lime?
  • Finish – Not long but rather pleasant
  • Water – Softens, mellows it out and makes it even sweeter
  • Overall – The kind of whisky to sip in a comfy chair, very palatable, well balanced and well rounded

Having tried all three before, I found the Edradour stood up best after being opened. Alas the Glenburgie had clearly lost some of its earlier nuances. And the Bunnahabhain? Let’s just say it is not one to sit in a bottle. The most expensive of the trio was also the most disappointing.

But what to sip with our cigars?

One already has clear sherry preferences. For him, he likes his whiskies robust and full of flavour. Aberlour just so happens to be a personal favourite, so it was only natural to introduce him to the gorgeous A’bunadh Batch 35.

For another, we earlier spoke of enjoying a good Irish dram – when in the mood for something a little simpler and sociable. He’d sampled Tyrconnel before – even has a bottle at home – however had yet to try the Madeira finish.

Now, another member knows his stuff and nothing less than a complex, nuanced and very special dram will do! I knew what remained in my whisky cabinet would not meet such standards. Closest was a few remaining rare Japanese whiskies yet only a single dram left – clearly insufficient to support a good cigar. So the Signatory trio would simply have to do.

And the last? I still haven’t pegged his preference beyond a desire to try something ‘different’. So added an unpeated Paul John Classic into the mix.

My experience pairing with the cigar? I initially thought the Edradour with its rich sherry notes would pair best with my robusto. Imagine my surprise to discover the delicate Glenburgie held its own.

Slainthe!

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Aberlour 16 year (1995/2011) Cask No 2303 57.2%

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I will admit to having a weakness for a sherry bomb or two. While not my ‘everyday dram’, when in the mood for something robust and very berry good, nothing beats it.

Aberlour‘s A’bunadh is a particularly good example of a full cask strength sherry bomb that remains in the affordable category.

No surprise then that this 1st fill sherry cask Aberlour was a hit!

Last in our special “filled by hand” distillery trio, it was quite the whisky.

Hand filled Abelour 16 year

Hand filled Abelour 16 year

Aberlour 16 year (10 June 1995 / 6 Sept 2011) Cask No 2303 (1st fill sherry), Bottle No 180, 57.2%

Here is what we found:

  • Nose – Gorgeous sherry! Figs, plums, juicy dark fruit, nuts, christmas cake, chocolate, dates, orange peel, vanilla
  • Palate – Woodsy dry edge, bit bitter, light balsa then softened to settle into a balanced sweet, bursting with raisins
  • Finish – Rich plums
  • Water – Not necessary but doesn’t hurt. The little extra spice adds something, rounds it out further and opens up to reveal ginger

Overall – a very palatable, rich, sherry bomb that goes down beautifully well.

While thoroughly enjoyable, when it came time to chose my preferred dram to accompany my panatela cigar, I will admit reaching for the Glenmorangie as the Aberlour was fabulous to sample but almost too much ‘Christmas’ for the March heat in Mumbai.

Also part of our remarkable Cask Strength hand-filled whiskies evening:

Other Abelour’s sampled previously:

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Glenfiddich 15 year Batch 15 (2012) 55%

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After the remarkable Glenmorangie, next up in our exceptional evening of hand-filled cask strength whiskies was this Glenfiddich 15 year.

Glenfiddich is one of the classic single malts… a standard most have encountered and consumed at some point. Our host is particularly partial to the 15 year, hence this was his choice when selecting a whisky to hand fill at their distillery in Dufftown.

Glenfiddich 15 year

Glenfiddich 15 year (19 April 2012) Batch No 15, Bottle No 11/15, 55%

Here is what we found:

  • Nose – Honey, light fruit, black pepper, a little spice, wood, musty, floral, dash of vanilla
  • Palate – Plum, cherry sour, spice, warm, wood, sawdust, light sherry
  • Finish – Tart sour cherry that sweetens out
  • Water – Absolutely add it! Takes the acidity out and smoothes it.

This cask strength whisky is known as the “Distillery Edition” and we anticipated it to be “more” with greater complexity and character than the standard 15 year. It has been a long time since I had a Glenfiddich 15 year, so couldn’t add much to the debate on how they differ… however indeed felt privileged to sample a dram straight from the distillery.

The Glenfiddich tastings notes for this whisky:

  • Colour – Rich and golden
  • Nose – A complex aroma with sweet, fruity notes and delicate vanilla oakness. Addition of a little water releases a beautiful combination of heathery spiciness and rich fruit cake.
  • Taste – Silky smooth and warming when tasted at full strength. With the addition of water it produces intriguing layers of spice, sherry oak, marzipan, dark chocolate and ginger.
  • Finish – Long lasting with a lingering vanilla sweetness.

Also part of our cask strength hand-filled whisky evening:

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Bombay Malt + Cigar – Bragging rights!

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The latest edition of Mumbai based whisky sampling adventures has (un)officially been dubbed the BMC aka Bombay Malt & Cigar club (play on the ubiquitous Bombay Municipal Corporation)… and it is insane the levels these gents achieve.

Our 1st session featured ‘Adult’ whiskies… all 21 years or older.

Our 2nd session featured cask strength whiskies each personally filled by our host during various visits to Scotland between 2006 to 2011.

Are you kidding me?! How on earth are us mere mortals to top that???

Our host duly wins bragging rights for offering us three such unique whiskies.

What did we sample?

What on earth will top this for our next session?

Hand filled whisky

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Canadian stash – Duthies Auchroisk 20 year 46%

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Ever have something you were rather curious to discover but then were massively disappointed?

Last year my aunt and uncle in Canada made an offer I couldn’t refuse. They are fellow whisky aficionados who run a whisky tasting group in Fort Francis, Ontario and gave me a chance to sample anything in their current whisky collection!

Duthies Auchroisk 20 year was part of the ‘list’ and intrigued me as:

  • Not yet had something from Duthies independent bottler – the sub-brand of Cadenhead
  • Also not had a sample from Auchroisk and 20 year seemed a rather good place to start!

The Auchroisk distillery opened in 1972 and produced its first whisky in 1978. Currently owned by Diageo, it is mostly used in J&B with its latest slogan of Scotch whisky “made for mixing.” Some may also have tried whisky from this distillery under the  “Singleton” brand.

Photo & sample courtesy Whisky Lady's Aunt & Uncle

Photo & sample courtesy Whisky Lady’s Aunt & Uncle

Excited, I cracked open the sample jar….

  • Colour – Light gold
  • Nose – Quite striking, barley, salty, brine, slightly rotten fruit, as it opened more a hint of sweet vanilla, slight dry sweet spices… mostly cloves, then something that is vaguely reminiscent of marshmallows that have gone slightly sour
  • Taste – Very dry, odd undertone of sweet resin, something a bit peculiar, rubber, soapy… the more I sipped the more ‘off’ it seemed
  • Finish – Warm, malt and – don’t laugh – manure

I began to speculate that something from the container tainted the whisky – possible as it was from last year and the rubber seal had become stuck on the glass. There is just something very strange about this whisky. Imagine dishwater soap meets dry wood.

Bottom line – it simply doesn’t work for me.

Here’s what others say:

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