Lowland whisky | Whisky Lady

Once upon a time, the Scottish Lowlands were replete with many whisky distilleries which then dwindled to nearly none – including the loss of the remarkable Rosebank. Before 2000, there were only two active distilleries – Auchentoshan and Glenkinchie. However step by step, distillery by distillery, there has been an awakening – from the revival of older discontinued distilleries like Blandanoch and Little Mill, joined by Kingsbarns, Annandale, Alisa Bay (from Girvain), and more recently, the entry of Lindores Abbey.

The benefit of being at a whisky show is an opportunity to check out new players. This was certainly possible at London’s Whisky Show 2023, providing the perfect opportunity to explore a new entry from the Scottish Lowlands. Lochlea is a family-run, growing their own barley and experimenting with different casks and expressions. We began with their core expression, then explored their season’s quartet, and closed with their cask strength.

Lochlea “Our Barley” Single Malt 46%

Their core range is from barley from their Lochlea Farm – hence the name “Our Barley”. It is a trip cask with STR hogsheads, 1st fill Bourbon, and Oloroso Sherry.

On the nose, we were greeted with a delicious sweetness, apples, and pears joined by red berries, something fresh like a meadow, and yoghurt. On the palate, it was equally sweet, yet with a few other elements thrown in, lightly nutty. Overall we found it young, bright and balanced, an easy-drinking and enjoyable dram.

We then moved on to their limited edition seasonal range with:

Lochlea “Sowing Edition” 2nd Crop (2023) 46%

Lochlea “Harvest Edition” 2nd Crop (2023) 46%

Lochlea “Fallow Edition” 1st Crop (2023) 46%

Lochlea “Ploughing Edition” 1st Crop (2023) 46%

Starting with the “Sowing Edition” with 1st Fill ex-Bourbon Barrels, it was fresh and spring-like, with apples and pears on the nose, and equally light on the palate. Nothing complicated or challenging, just bright and fun. The green label was chosen to reflect the green of spring.

We then explored the “Harvest Edition”, which was a combination of Port, STR barriques, and ex-bourbon barrels. Toasted malt and raspberries, then strawberry jam, like an Eton mess with a hint of spice. The reddish label harkens to the late summer sunset after harvest.

After that, we shifted gears to the “Fallow Edition” with 1st Fill Olorosso butts. Now this was more our style – big, bold sherry aromas yet also nicely balanced – lots of dark red berries, dried fruits, malty, and baked goods. A rich purple label reflects the shift to fall with the colourful falling leaves.

The seasonal series closed with winter and peat with the “Ploughing Edition” using ex-Islay (Laphroaig) Barrels combined with peated quarter casks. There was a freshness to even this dram. On the nose, it was just a puff of peat smoke layering on top of orchard fruits. On the palate, the peat was significantly more pronounced, joining stewed apples and nuts. As for the label this time? The colour is an icy blue label for the frosty cold of winter.

We finished with the Lochlea Single Malt Cask Strength Batch 1 (2023) 60.1%

This was one that caught our attention. At Cask Strength, you could really see the influence of the casks – 1st fill bourbon with Oloroso. It was big with dark fruits, coffee and nutty. Yum.

As we discussed the range and approach – at that young, experimental stage – testing the waters to see what works. After sampling them all, we tended to prefer the core expression, the “Harvest Edition” and Cask Strength. All were fleeting impressions however an interesting start…

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I spotted this duty-free release a few years ago with its bonus of three miniature expressions and thought – why not!?

Auchentoshan is sometimes called a ‘breakfast’ whisky as it is light and sweet. They are also known for ‘triple distilling‘ which Auchentoshan claims is responsible for their ‘gentle complex flavours.’

Now… perhaps as a tasting group we lack the ability to discern such subtle quality… however the reason we’ve barely explored expressions from this Lowland distillery is generally individual samplings have been disappointing.

This particular one, the Auchentoshan Cooper’s Reserve 14 year was matured in American bourbon casks then Spanish Oloroso sherry casks.

Auchentoshan Cooper’s Reserve 14 year (Whisky Lady)

We first sampled it in September 2013, and given our lacklustre impression of the distillery, when the whisky was revealed, most were pleasantly surprised… Here’s what we had to say then:

Bright amber in colour, a delightful banana, caramel and pear on the nose. Dry yet still sweet on the palate, very smooth with a spicy finish that lingers with a hint of dried fruit. Add water and the peat peaks out both in the nose and palate. Pronounced quite lovely and definitely one to enjoy.

With the unveiling, more than one taster shared their mixed experience with Auchentoshan – having a few ‘duds’ and some ‘delights’ this one at least was in the positive category.

Post this, I must admit, I tried it a few times but wasn’t overly attracted to its character. It then was left neglected at the back of the whisky cabinet, occasionally trotted out for social evenings.

When I was recently re-organising the whisky cabinet, decided it was time to re-sample – keeping in mind this particular bottle is in a far from optimal condition! I also saved just enough for one last dram to compare alongside the miniatures which have yet to be opened… (further indication haven’t been inspired!)

Auchentoshan Cooper’s Reserve 14 year 46%

Colour – Amber
Nose – Immediate stamp of both casks – bourbon and sherry, raisins, orange with something else swirling about – pear?, toffee sweet but also sharp. As it continued to breathe – chopped almost rancid nuts, dampening the citrus, shifting into a sour almost olive-like quality
Taste – Nutty, musty, citrus tart, with a chewy bitter oaky element
Finish – Bitter oak, old walnuts, warm
Water – Adding a dash brightens it up considerably – clean, crisp sweet nose with a wisp of woodiness, spice for a second that mellows into woodsy sparkly sweetness and finishes with a mildly bitter burn

Auchentoshan Cooper’s Reserve 14 year (Whisky Lady)

Do I like it?

Hmm… the very fact there isn’t an instant ‘yum’ tells you something. What I found is I couldn’t quite get past the slightly unpleasant nuttiness in this whisky. Perhaps entirely my fault as the bottle sat open too long, but old rancid walnuts isn’t my ‘nuttiness note’ of choice!

Overall it is a clean straight forward whisky without the depth and complexity that I find interesting.

Will this make me into an Auchentoshan convert? No… however will see if there is one gem in those cute little miniatures – the 12 year, three wood and 18 year. When I get around to trying…

PS – I did try the miniatures in May 2015… see the notes here.