When you think of the world of whisky, Scotland dominates, with Japan, Ireland, and a smattering of other countries also popping up on the radar. And when it comes to the Americas? The first assumption is American bourbons, perhaps a Canadian rye, but further south of the border? Nothing tends to come to mind.

And yet, if you’ve been following the world of spirits lately, you might discover that Mexico is quietly staging a grain-forward revolution. Beyond the smoke of mezcal and the bright crispness of tequila lies a treasure trove of ancient heirloom grains…

An intrepid tasting club member put his liver to the test, going deep into the world of Mexican corn whisky. He lost count of the distilleries and expressions sampled, selecting just three bottles to bring back to Mumbai for our edification.

We began with an offering from Juan del Campo, who treat corn with the same reverence a single-malt distillery treats barley, going so far as to put the exact details of the Creole corn breed, the farmer, and the harvest year right on the bottle!

Juan del Campo Maiz 42%

• Nose – Initially quite sour, then sweet, savoury, and some spice too! It had quite a distinctive “khatta meetha masala” vibe. It also reminded me a bit of grape cola, and my tasting companions of kala khatta, then revealed a hint of walnut
• Palate – Orange spice tea, syrupy
• Finish – A touch bitter with more of that nutty element
• Water – Amps up the spice with cayenne, less orange on the nose, more orange on the palate

With the revisit, it had more of a raw-grain element, was slightly sour, and even a bit marshmallow-sweet on the nose!

Not a bad start. Whilst it wouldn’t be a first choice in a bar, it was very interesting to try.

We continued with a trip to the Sierra Norte mountains… Sierra Norte has been a trailblazer in showcasing Oaxacan heirloom corn varietals. Their Yellow Corn expression—aged remarkably well for a young spirit in French oak—is considered one of the most harmonious and complex in their colorful lineup.

What did we think?

Sierra Norte Yellow Corn 45% Lot 70, Barrel 9 of 27, 156 bottles

• Nose – Varnish, then an old fashioned kind of rose petal perfume that then shifted into lily attar, with more time in the glass, the perfumes were joined by dolce de luca or a cheeters condensed milk! It then shifted to sour yoghurt or baby puke, then to sweet woods, spice, slightly sour, a bit funky, then tinned peaches and peach pits
• Palate – Hmmm…. not sure about this… started off quite peculiar, lots of gooseberry with some cherry stone and maiz
• Finish – Almost none at first, then after more time in the glass, it was very dry, resinous, and became even sweeter

Yet a funny thing started to happen… the more we sniffed and sipped, the more it opened up, becoming increasingly approachable, then enjoyable. I later tried it in a cocktail with lime bitters, a touch of agave syrup, and triple sec – and rather enjoyed this refreshing and fun cocktail!

We concluded that Sierra Norte was the most accessible of the trio.

Which brings us to the most off-beat of the three corn whiskies!

Born from a partnership between a Basque cooperage expert and the founder of Mezcal Koch, Prieto y Prieta is a tribute to indigenous roots. They use an organic field blend of four distinct endemic Oaxacan corn types: white and yellow (for sweetness) alongside red and purple (for deep, savory umami).

Prieto y Prieta 43%

• Nose – How curious! It was much more like Campari than whisky. A touch of cherry cough syrup, a sweet liqueur with loads of orange – the peel and a squirt of the juice! Think of a citrus herb schnapps
• Palate – Antiseptic, still had the liquor, yet now more like a Benedictine Brandy, a bit bitter, a distinctive dirt
• Finish – Cumin, clove, penicillin, very different

The more we contemplated this whisky, the more it demonstrated just how atypical it is! The lasting impression was of dirt and a schnapps jaal jeera! Not at all like a whisky. Very unusual in all respects. What more do we know? It was matured in ex-Sherry, French, and American oak barrels. With such standard wood, it was clearly the corn that made all the difference!

Overall, what did we think? Well, Mexican corn whisky isn’t trying to be Bourbon, and it isn’t trying to be Scotch. By leaning into its agricultural heritage with corn, these distilleries are capturing a completely new, unique sense of place. And the only way to know if you like the results is to try!

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