Our whisky host shared how they were touring other sites and practically stumbled upon Royal Lochanagar. They simply had to make a short detour for a distillery tour!
And why not? There is a royal precedent to touring this distillery! Neighbouring Balmoral Castle, Queen Victoria and Prince Albert were invited for a whisky tour in 1848. Post this experience, the Prince issued a royal warrant! Which was continued by King Edward VII and King George V.
Today, Royal Lochangar is the smallest whisky distillery in the Diageo stable, with a reputation for being a bit of a conundrum. Why? The two stills and worm tubs would tend to lend themselves to a ‘heavy’ style, but instead, great efforts are made to produce a ‘light’ new make spirit.
Bought on site for ~£50, the 12 year is part of their core range. What did we think?
- Nose – Incredibly sweet at first, a rich rumtopf full of soaked juicy fruits, lots of plums, cherries… then it shifted, revealing fresh grass with the heavy fruity aromas fading, instead we found a growing carmalized onion – almost like a sweet bacon jam, a bit sweet and salty, then oak, vanilla, marmalade with pronounced orange rind, even some apple cider vinegar or turpentine, and a shandy beer/sprite mix!
- Finish – Woody, salty black licorice (a Nordic lakris style), some white pepper, a bit earthy, umami, sweet roasted vegetables, betel leaf, apples
- Revisit – Astringent, dry
Many of our Whisky Ladies thought this expression might be much more interesting at 46% rather than 40%. It seemed a bit, well, too watered down.
Overall, we found it was a fairly easy-drinking dram. However, whilst it was relatively innocuous, there was nothing truly exceptional either.
Interestingly, they’ve kept many similar elements in their current official tasting notes vs those shared nearly a decade ago – right down to the turpentine!
- Nose – A relatively closed nose. Planed wood, light toffee, boat varnish. Linseed oil behind, even putty, and later a lychee-like acidity. With water, the acidity comes up (acid drops), and the nose sweetens. Still a pleasant fresh woodiness or leatheriness, the varnish now supported by artists turpentine. Warm sand. After a while, coffee dregs with brown sugar. Not an obvious nose, however.
- Body – Medium-bodied with a smooth mouthfeel.
- Palate – This delicate malt offers fruits, planed wood, and light toffee. The palate is sweet before gaining in acidity.
- Finish – Dry; medium-length, with an attractive lingering sandalwood aftertaste. Sharp and well-balanced.
Full disclosure, I had previously sampled this expression ~ 9 years earlier. We concluded it was a sharp varnish until it settled down and became more approachable. This time, I didn’t find the sandalwood aftertaste; the impression remained of something ordinary rather than extraordinary.
What else did we sample that evening?
- Royal Lochnagar 12 year 40% – From an earlier experience
- Berry Bros & Rudd Single Malt Sherry Cask Matured 45.2%
- MacNair’s Lum Reek Peated 12 year 46%
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