Up next up in our miniatures sampling was a duo from Gordon & MacPhail from their Connoisseurs Choice line.
From the prodigious Speyside region, Auchroisk was built in 1974 with high necked stills intended to produce a lighter elegant spirit. Today it is owned by Diageo with some official bottlings released under the label ‘The Singleton’ (until 2001) which confusingly now is used for three different malts in three different regions: Dufftown (Europe), Glendullan (USA) and Glen Ord (Asia).
Primarily used in blends such at J&B, you may find it difficult to track down a bottle. Only a few casks have been acquired by independent bottlers and there are very limited official releases such as a 20 year, 30 year and a few single casks.
I previously sampled an Auchroisk 20 year old from independent bottlers Duthies – a sub-brand of Cadenhead. This experience didn’t enamour me as my impression was “dishwater soap meets dry wood”… however I also speculated my sample had become tainted, so was keen to try again.
This time, I went with a Gordon & MacPhail bottling of approximately 17 years.
Auchroisk (1996/2014) 46% (Gordon & MacPhail)
- Nose – Initially quite organic, overripe fruit – especially banana, think sour mash, leaves in the spring damp after a rain, flowers, then a delightful honeydew melon. After airing, revealed fresh crisp pears
- Palate – What a contrast! A soft, subtle yet delicious peat, sweet, smooth, beautifully balanced, still quite fruity with a nice coating, like sucking on gumdrops
- Finish – A lovely long finish, sustaining a gentle sweetness
Absolutely delightful! We quite enjoyed how the nose shifted from over-ripe fruit to crisp fresh pears… the taste brought another dimension but above all it was the finish that invited us to slow down and enjoy.
This is no frivolous dram, instead one for a meaningful relationship.
My sipping companion is now a full convert to the “If it is Gordon & MacPhail… buy it!”
Here’s what the Gordon & MacPhail folks have to say:
- Aroma – Fresh and fruity with ripe plum and kiwi aromas. Toasted malt and subtle herbal notes with hints of old leather and aniseed.
- Taste – The palate is peppery initially with stewed plums and lemon flavours. A lingering milk chocolate edge develops.
- Aroma – Stewed pears, banana and grapefruit aromas. A subtle hazelnut and toasted malt edge lingers.
- Taste – Sweet with cinnamon, nutmeg and black pepper. Fruit flavours develop with plum and lychee.
More malt miniatures picked up from The Whisky Exchange:
- Glencadam 15 year 46%
- Auchroisk 1996/2014 46% (Gordon & MacPhail)
- Glen Keith 1993/2011 46% (Gordon & MacPhail)
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